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Slhanay (The Squaw)
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley 2010 FFA: Glenn Woloski, Harry Young 2010
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 29, 2015

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This climb offers 5 pitches of excellent, fairly burly crack climbing. With the exception of a single bolt-protected move, all of the climbing is 5.10.
P1 (10c) : Climb a crack past a stump and left move left into a right facing coner to belay on bolts (20m)
P2 (10c): Continue up the corner and then move right past some suspect rock to belay at another set of bolts (25m)
P3 (11a): Head up an excellent left-facing corner and then make a slab move left past a bolt to gain another left facing corner. Continue up the corner, trending left, and keep an eye out for a bolted anchor. It's easy to miss this anchor (30m)
P4 (10d): A long, burly pitch. Continue trending left up the left facing corner as it widens. A #5 cam comes in handy on this pitch (30m).
P5 (5.9): Step right and enter the long splitter hand of the better 5.9s in Squamish. (30m).

Descent: From the top, move right about 20m to a rap station. 5 raps with 60m will get you down


Follow the normal trail up to the Slahany, but branch left before reaching the main part of the cliff. The route starts just left of a bolted pitch (start of White Feather). If you hit Photophobia you've gone too far


A SR to 5" with doubles of purple/green/red camalots

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