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BETA PHOTO: Squawk diagonals up the steep north face, turning ...
Climb the Squaw's backside, starting at the little notch on the east end and spiraling around the north. Cut hard right just off the notch, and follow fun steps to a ledge below overhangs. Climb very steeply, with good pro, until you can step right onto a good stance below final overhang. Find as much pro as you can, step right again, pull the bulge, and mantel up to the top. If you do it the way we did, you'll finish right at the summit chains.
Standard rack, extra slings. Small wires are useful at the top.
By Mark Pell
Oct 24, 2015
I led out the roof to the lip in 1994, leaving a solid #4 Wild Country Rock and an oval 'biner at my high point and downclimbing to retreat before a storm. I'm glad this route has subsequently been completed, and I always thought it would be a good one.