REI Community
(xx) Indian Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Leaning Brave, Pale Face T 
Squaw Rock, Spiral T 

Squaw Rock, Spiral 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a X [details]
FA: Johnny Bissel, 1935
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Northeast side of Squaw Rock

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This classic adventure route makes for an excellent solo. The route begins on the South (or Smith Rock) side of the tower with a short boulder problem right off the deck to surmount the large sloping ramp that is the base of Squaw Rock. There are numerous places that you can scramble on to this ramp, so pick a spot that inspires you. Once on the ramp, head up (to the right or north), and begin spiraling around the tower in a counter-clockwise fashion. The difficulty is never greater than third class. Enjoy the views and reverse the route.


Begins on the S side of Squaw Rock, the most prominent formation on Indian Ridge.



Comments on Squaw Rock, Spiral Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Wade
Apr 2, 2009

Probably true that the climbing is all 4th class, but there are a few spots for decent pro, and I was glad to have a rope to get down with.
By Karl Helser
From: Portland, Oregon
Jan 13, 2012

Yes, and I was glad to see anchor's on the summit, since the old Smith book says there are no anchor's...I can hear Watts now..."I don't need no stink'n anchor's"...
By loose overhang 2000
Nov 9, 2014

Climbed this a couple of days ago. We took the route to it described in Watts. The hardest part is definitely the section just off the ground. Pay attention to the descent if climbing ropeless. There is some loose rock, but there are enough cracks to enable some small to medium pro along the spiral. There is no need to go to where the other routes meet at the place shown in the guidebook, an easy bay provides a way to the top just before rounding the corner to the SW. The hike in is longer than an hour and a half. We took over two hours, but we are old.

By Daire Maguire
From: Calgary, Alberta
Apr 6, 2016

Like Watts says the first 5 meters off the ground is tricky, not bad on the way up but harder on the way down if your not used to downclimbing. The climbing is bulgy so it can be hard to find the feet on the downclimb...if your rapping off the anchor at the top you'll need two ropes to reach all the way to the base
By Lane Mathis
From: Denver, CO
Sep 3, 2017

A nest pair of Peregrine were out for blood this summer. I'm not sure if birds nest here often, but it's something to be mindful of during the raptor closures for the park.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About