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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alphonse T 
Baskerville Terrace T 
Broken Sling T 
Criss T 
Criss Cross Direct T 
Disney Point T 
Disneyland T 
Dog-Stick-Ridge T 
Easy Rider T 
Fat City Direct T 
Fat Stick T 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 
G-String Giants T 
Gelsa T 
Grand Central T 
Hounds, The T 
Independence T 
Infinite Space T 
Inverted Layback T 
Kansas City T 
Land of The Giants T 
Layback T 
Le Plie T 
Outer Space T 
Requiem T 
Saint Louis T 
Sling Time T 
Squat thrust T 
Swing Time T 
Te Dum T 
Topeka T 
Wandering Stars Jude 13 T 
Yellow Belly T 
Yellow Ridge T 

Squat thrust 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Russ Clune and Jeff Morris, 1986
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: akline on Jul 20, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Start on Broken Sling until you get to the first roof, where you bust out left around the corner to a steep slab. Climb the slab to a small stance below a left-facing corner. From here you have to execute an awkward 5.10+ R boulder problem to get to the good rest stance on the ledge above. This boulder problem is decently protected by small cams, but if you fall, you will most likely slam into the slab below. Once at the upper stance, continue straight up an obvious right-facing corner to a small roof, make a move out right through the roof, and follow a right facing flake system to easier climbing.

I thought that the climbing was super fun and interesting for most of the climb, but the gear is hard to place well.


The route shares the start of Broken Sling. You'll end up climbing the overhanging orange face up and left that you can see through the trees when standing at the base.


Single rack, with some small c3s and small nuts.

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