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(p) Spiderman Buttress
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Squashed Spider 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Smelsar 1978
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 1,899
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: JimG nearing the Squashed Spider anchors.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Previously a popular solo route is now a nice bolted route. Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead. The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests.

Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman. Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor.

Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)


12 quickdraws + slings for the anchor

chains at anchor

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By JohnK
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 20, 2006

Squashed Spider is a good first-time lead because the 5.7 crux is at the very start so it's easy for the belayer to spot the leader. After that it's mostly a 5.2-5.4 hike on nubbins where most of the exercise is clipping the frequent bolts. Better quality routes are nearby including In Harms Way, Out of Harms Way and, of course, Spiderman.
By Mike Zasadzien
Oct 13, 2014

There's a very good reason for the name of the route: the amount of rockfall that comes down from Spiderman is quite frequent. Please be sure to wear a helmet and keep an eye on people on the route above you. Had a nice softball sized rock slam right next to my ankle without hearing it coming from above. Had a couple little guys bounce off both my partner's and my helmets, and later on saw a french-bread sized rock coming down on that area after we left.
By D Dale
Mar 21, 2016

  • One of the bolts at the anchor has broken off and is in need of replacement* There is only a single ring to rappel off of at the top of this route. I added a biner to one of the bolts on Spiderman (there are two bolts on Spiderman side by side) and then used it and the one remaining ring on Squashed Spider to rappel down. It was a bit awkward and this wasn't a long term solution.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Apr 1, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this today and the anchor was solid with two bolts, each with giant quicklinks to rappel from. Must have gotten fixed since last year.

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