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Bob's Rocking Chair
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allergic Reaction T 
Blind Man's Glasses T 
Hippies Anonymous T,S,TR 
Jointed Venture T 
Neanderthal or Not at All T 
Squash Rocker T,TR 

Squash Rocker 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Mike Grossman, Kristen Carrol - 1990
Season: The base is in the stream early season
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Start a few feet left of the stacked blocks of Jointed Venture and make your way up underneath the large roof by either climbing the dihedral (mellow, probably not the original route) or tackling the face straight up (hard but only way to clip the first bolt).
Plug a piece underneath the roof and make an awkward rockover move to the right to get out from under the roof. Clip the 2nd bolt and make your way up the upper slab, pinching crystals and feeling a bit runout.

Location 

Located in between Hippies Anonymous and Jointed Venture.
Better to walk off to the east although you could sling trees at the top and lower.

Protection 

2 bolts + a hand size cam for the roof.
Micros and small nuts useful to protect the dihedral. Long runners to avoid heinous rope drag.


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By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I though this was a solid committing climb. Small gear to protect the beginning, a #2.5-#3 definitely protects the moves over the roof. Then some bolts above protect the thin slab. Full value route!

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