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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Small? S,TR 
Blue Suede Shoes  S 
Dazed and Confused  S 
Easy Rider S 
Elvis Has Left the Building  S 
Graceland S 
Inner Space T,TR 
Left Book T 
Lost in Space  S 
Lounge Lizard  S 
Mr. Wizard T 
Purple Haze  S 
Reefer Madness  S 
Soul Kitchen S 
Straight Outta Memphis  S 
Teenage Wasteland  S 
Up in Smoke  S 
Unsorted Routes:

Squarenail Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.0376, -119.4074 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,752
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Feb 15, 2003
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Elvis Wall Sport Climbs


Squarenail is predominately a sport crag with easy acess a short distance from Tollhouse rock, and closer to Fresno. It holds both moderate slab and steep face climbs, as well as a few cracks. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12.

Getting There 

From Prather, continue up 168, turning left at the stop sign up the "4 lane." From the stop sign, clock 5.2 miles. park at a pullout on a sweeping left-hand curve with a road-cut. You have to hop the curb just after the guardrail ends. A trail starts just before the roadcut rises up -- its a little hidden behind some brush. the trail takes you to the top of the cliff. Follow a gully down to access the main wall and harder (5.10 and up) routes. Continue along the top of the rock to a path leading down left to a scree gully and back to the slab routes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Squarenail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Squarenail:
Are You Small?   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Easy Rider   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Wizard   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Lost in Space    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Squarenail

Featured Route For Squarenail
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. Wizard, classic sustained corner.

Mr. Wizard 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : Southern Sierra : Squarenail
This is the classic right face corning at Squarenail. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Squarenail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of the crag
View from the top of the crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall area at Elvis Wall. Easy climbs with a cr...
BETA PHOTO: Headwall area at Elvis Wall. Easy climbs with a cr...

Comments on Squarenail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jan 26, 2009
This (Squarenail) should be set as a seperate area in the Sierra Foothills region.
By Chad Namolik
From: Three Rivers, CA
Apr 20, 2012
led Mr Wizard recently and its a pretty good route. mid life crisis looks good too.
By russell morris
Aug 11, 2012
the 4 lane is on fire
By Chris Blanchard
Nov 24, 2012
Does anyone know what the bolted route is on the block above playground ledge? It is sewn up pretty good and I was super interested in getting on it .... but I couldn't find a starting hand hold .. or foot hold .. or any hold??
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 28, 2013
Chris, it's just been referred to as the "Aid Boulder" in the guide books.
Jetstream (.10c) - left trending w/ 4 bolts.
True Grit (.10b) - right trending offwidth crack.
By Collin Baker
Jul 24, 2017
Great area, beautiful views looking out toward the central valley (if you can see through the haze from the smoke/fires). Would like to point out that there are multiple trails that lead out of the parking area. Look for the one along the road, which was marked by an orange ribbon when we were there yesterday. We instead took a trail out of the backside of the parking area and then had to bushwhack 200 yards to reach the top of the crag. Crag is south facing with very little shade available, at least in the slab area where we were climbing. Beautiful area, but don't make the same mistake we did and go there when it is 100 degrees out. Brutal!

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