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Spun Gold 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Wright, Tarrant, 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Most
Page Views: 2,649
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 9, 2007

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Spun Gold is a variation to Solid Gold that splits off at the final two pitches. P1, P2, and P3 are shared with SG.

P4, 5.11c/d, splits right off the belay and quickly encounters bullet proof rock on a steep head wall at 5.11c/d. Exit the crack above at 5.11b and step left to a hanging belay.

P5, 5.12a/b, launches left from the belay and starts up a left facing corner. NB: after the fourth clip, drop back down and transition right into the open book dihedral directly above the belay. The original intent had been to launch directly into the open book, but reefing off a couple of flakes shut off this option. Moving through and above the dihedral picks up a bit of runout, but it's not a lot, just stay on the feet. Chase up the head wall on some killer incut slots to a final perplexing crux just below a small tree. The rap station is located above the ledge in order to keep your ropes running clean.

Spun Gold was freed in the Spring of 2006, but after some discussion I moved several bolts that altered the start of P5, and Mark Tarrant strung the entire line together for the FFA.


Variation to Solid Gold.


A dozen draws and a couple of camming units will make things comfortable, as described for Solid Gold. The camming units are not strictly necessary, but without them a couple of spicy runouts will be encountered on P1. It is possible to link P1 and P2 if you carry 18 draws and something for the belay. P5 requires a couple of long slings for the second and third clips. To descend, rap back down the line. While it is possible to walk off, it is probably not worth the effort to do so. A 70 meter rope allows you skip the rap at the top of P4 and comfortize the lower raps. Otherwise, as described for Solid Gold, a 60 meter rope or double ropes are mandatory. P1 and P2 are right on at 100 feet, so tie the ends of your rope.

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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008

I liked the P4 variation, but found the P5 variation unpleasant. Not to say there isn't some good climbing up there, but the P5 of solid gold is better IMHO. My personal reccomendation would be to do P4 of Spun Gold, then switch back to P5 of Solid Gold.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 31, 2008

No one will probably respond to this comment, but I went up and did this route yesterday. After getting to the hanging belay on the 5th pitch, I was confused as to where the route was supposed to go.

The hanging belay is under a bulge which can be passed on the left through a dihedral that had a bolt. Or to the right of the bulge which had a bolt as well. The bolts were about 5 feet apart at the same level. I went left and pulled it with ease but came back down after I saw the other bolt. I had trouble going the other way I was not sure if I was suppossed to go directly over the bulge (which I was trying) or to the right in the weakness.

Any comments?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 4, 2008

Michael, the original plan was straight up from the belay. That seemed pretty hard initially, so moving left made sense, and that is how Mark and I worked it out. However, when we came down to work the straight up way, it seemed to go okay as well, just a lot more fingery. I left the bolt thinking that it made for a more interesting option. Straight up is a bit run out but you pick up some very good feet quickly.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Aug 7, 2008

Ah thanks for the beta Richard. So I ended up pulling it both

I went left first and made it clean but did not like the traverse back right to the next bolt at the base of the headwall so I came back down. Then I went straight up (harder) and hung a couple of times to figure it out. Guess I got the full potential of that one then!

Great route! Thanks Richard for putting it up!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Thought the first pitch of Spun Gold was more along the 11b/c range and one of the better pitches of 5.11 in the canyon. The upper headwall is awesome and makes up for the awkward roof pull at the beginning of that pitch.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Aug 26, 2010

Shameful bolting.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 27, 2010

With regard to anchor bolt spacing, the extra force on more widely spaced bolts is trivial for 3/8" or 1/2" bolts capable of holding several thousand pounds. What is more important, especially in CCC where sometime a foot or 2 of the rock surface comes off is to place the anchor bolts in separate pieces of stone in case one were to break away. I haven't personally done this route, but my experience in CCC is that the rock should always be considered somewhat suspect.
By Greg Miller
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Is it possible to belay at the start of p.4, link 4/5, and lower back down with a 70m?
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I think a 70m would make it, but it would be pretty challenging to get back to that anchor at the bottom of P4, since the pitches wander to the right through fairly steep terrain. The easiest descent from P5 is to rap to the intermediate anchor in the middle of Playin' Hooky.
By Greg Miller
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Super fun climb especially when combining P4 and 5. There are a lot of close together bolts starting pitch 5 over the roof, I recommend bringing a bunch of extendable draws and maybe skipping a couple bolts (maybe even a 48 incher). You CAN lower with a 70m rope back to the belay at the start of pitch 4 no problem with just enough rope to clip into the anchor. I actually enjoyed this more than Solid Gold. Don't let the hero jugs fool you.... P4 is very Eldo-esque. There is a new bolted line left of the start of the normal Solid Gold/Playing Hooky. You can easily simul-climb this route to the p.4 anchor or do it in 2/3 pitches... probably 5.8 in all. Helmets are a good idea on this wall, at least until you get up high, there is lots of loose stuff on the ledges.

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