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Hanging Chain
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Spry Look S 
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Spry Look 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard - 1990
Page Views: 2,153
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Nov 7, 2011

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Spry Look is an incredibly sustained, technical face climb up a beautiful orange and black wall, high above Lake Lure. The grade is kind of a joke - while there are probably no 5.12 moves on the route, it is still one of the hardest .12b's I've tried. It is best described as 5 or 6 long v2 and v3 boulder problems stacked on top of each other with nothing that even resembles a rest. Technical sequences that, once deciphered, aren't hard for the grade - but they go on forever!

Head up the grey, blocky slab, shooting for the obvious right facing feature above. Fire up the corner on small edges and then head out onto the face for the crux sequence. Don't think it's over... the real crux of this route is just hanging on through the finish.


Obvious orange and black headwall on the left side of Hanging Chain. Look for a dirtyish grey slab below the vertical, blank looking wall.


Small stoppers and/or TCU's protect the first 30 feet, then it becomes a sport climb.

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