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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gelnn Ritter August '91
Page Views: 2,256
Submitted By: Ladd on May 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Springer

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Steep slab with very few positive holds in the crux that are placed just so that you really have to trust your feet.

The climb starts with some easy 5.5ish climbing and contiues almost all the ay to the roof, then you are hit by the crux. The crux comes just before the anchors with one long move that goes at 5.9+ but is very scary (for sport climbing).
Edited to add* While now I don't see this climb as scary, especially because the bolt is right there, I remember being quite scared the first time I led this one. Also the first time I led it the crimp right after the crux was super slick with green goo, and my hand blew off twice before I could latch the hold.

Delicate moves that rely far more on balance than strenght will guide you up this one, remember to use the force to levitate up the holds on this climb.


Right most route on the slab section.


6 bolts to Cold Shuts.

Photos of Springer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: April, 2014 Photo: Tainiko Lowman
April, 2014 Photo: Tainiko Lowman
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Springer 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: Me on Springer 5.10b
Rock Climbing Photo: KS trying to keep her fingers from freezing on thi...
KS trying to keep her fingers from freezing on thi...

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By Jacob Sustrich
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you like slab, get on this climb immediately. If you don't like slab, get on it anyways because it's awesome. Climbing up to the fourth bolt is pretty ledgy and easy, crux is a little nervewracking if you're not solid on slab. Try not to drag all the way down if you fall.

Crux will be made significantly easier if you're tall or if you have very skinny fingers.

Highly recommended!

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