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Springbank 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Matt Ciancio, Aug 2001
Page Views: 1,649
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Summer doesn't get any cooler. July 2010 Photo by...

Description 

Climb up the slabby wall on nobs and dike. The technical crux is at 2/3 height. Continue on up the wall until a move left then back right brings you below hanging flake.

The finishing moves up and over the flake are classic.

Location 

Located at the right side of the crag just right of the obvious green corner of Balvenie.

Protection 

8 bolts, Rappel bolt and chain anchor


Photos of Springbank Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan just below the crux of Springbank (5.10a), C...
Bryan just below the crux of Springbank (5.10a), C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up the quartz dikes on Springbank 5.10a
Climbing up the quartz dikes on Springbank 5.10a
Rock Climbing Photo: Springbank (5.10a) takes the obvious line just lef...
BETA PHOTO: Springbank (5.10a) takes the obvious line just lef...

Comments on Springbank Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Although the guidebook lists this as having 8 bolts there's only 7. It starts via a long right-slanting ramp or directly (better) although both starts have little to no gear. The climb itself is super fun as you stem, pinch and finesse your way up dikes (crux at 5th bolt) to a great finish up a huge flake (tug gently at the start).
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

sweet line, with a lot of variety, you can even throw in a mantle in if you'd like. i actually thought the physical and technical crux was just after the last bolt: undercling and left foot smear before getting a better foot. all other sections have solid hand and footholds, sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller.