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Spring Mountain

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Main Wall 
Upper Slabs & Dodge Dart Area 

Spring Mountain Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 2,400'
Location: 48.0994, -121.34446 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,158
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Davidson on Mar 2, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Spring Mountain Climbs (as of 2009) 1) Trophy Wife...

Description 

Spring Mountain started development in the mid 2000's. There has been more than 2 dozen routes put up so far, most of them are 2 or more pitches and 5.10 or less. The climbing varies greatly, from face climbing slab, to a couple overhanging cracks. Spring Mountain has so much more growth potential.

The crag has two general areas. The Main Wall and the Dodge Dart Area. The routes are pretty well bolted, but they are not sport routes. Gear is required to protect parts of each route. The walls are south facing so they will get sun all day. During the summer it is said that it can get pretty hot and humid here. The best time of year to climb is spring and fall with cooler temperatures and less vegetation.

Some of the classics are: Wild Rosy, The Other Side of the Tracks, Erocktica, and Romantica.

The rock is Tonalitic Orthogneiss. Which is a granite with more than 20% quartz. Giving it a very rough texture perfect for climbing.

Spring mountain hasn't come on to many climbers radars yet. So to escape the crowds, Spring mountain is a great place to go do some climbing. But this has also been its undoing. As that without the traffic, the routes tend to be retaken by the moss. Thanks to the dedication of the route developers and their continuing route cleaning and trail maintenance, this awesome rock has not disappeared back into the wilderness.

A Campsite is at the trailhead for parties that want to camp out and spent a couple days climbing/hiking. Another campsite with a beach is about a half mile further up the road.

Getting There 

From Darrington, head south on Mountain Loop Hwy for approximately 16 miles, the pavement ends around 8-9 miles. Then turning left on FS 49. Drive another 2.5 miles. There will be a pullout with a campsite. Park here and head up the well worn trail across the road from the pullout. The approach hike is about 20 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.0 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spring Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spring Mountain:
Other Side of the Tracks   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 650'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spring Mountain

Featured Route For Spring Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Other Side of the Tracks, pitch 1. Climbs much cle...

Other Side of the Tracks 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Washington : Northwest Region : ... : Main Wall
Other Side of the Tracks is well established as Spring Mountain’s most acclaimed and popular route. It features five long pitches of excellent face climbing with panoramic views of North Cascade peaks and valleys. At the route’s heart is the improbable and sustained headwall pitch (#3), surely one of Spring’s finest!1. Up the broad slab to the 12’ vertical white headwall at 9+. Opinions differ on whether the crux is the grunty headwall or a tricky overlap midway up the slab. This p...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Comments on Spring Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 3, 2015
Fun place. Lower-angle face climbing, big holds, beautiful scenery, and tons of space for more routes. Some good places in the river to dunk into after climbing as well. Nice to see someone write it up here.
By Curt Veldhuisen
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 27, 2016
Main wall is due south facing, so it can get hot! Also lots of drips and even waterfalls in spring, so give it time to dry out
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Apr 4, 2016
Curt, I believe you are right. Updated description.
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
May 24, 2017
FS-49 is Closed to vehicles at junction with the Mt. Loop due to road failure/slide before mile 1.
By oretro
May 27, 2017
Current conditions (as of Friday, May 26th, 2017):
Other Side of the Tracks is dirty and still pretty wet on Pitch 1. We backed off pretty quickly.
Wild Rosy is dirty but doable, at least for Pitch 1. Backed off after P1, as my partner couldn't locate the second bolt on Pitch 1.
Trophy Wife is definitely still too wet to attempt to climb.

Bring a scrub brush for your next visit to Spring Mountain!

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