|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Les Ellison & Brian Smoot, 1979|
|Season:||Spring & Fall|
|Submitted By:||bsmoot on Sep 3, 2006|
|Comments on Spring Fever||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 10, 2008
This is a lot of fun. You should know it is not as sustained as S-direct and the runnouts you do have are where its 5.6 or less. It definitely has harder moves than S-direct and they are for real but almost always within arms reach of a bolt or pro.
If you've done S-Direct and loved getting high on the Thumb this is a very worthy option. Do the alternate after the first pitch of S-direct as Brian recommended. That flake pitch is a lot like the Zion's Curtain on Arm and Hammer in Bell's and has cool entry and exit moves, making it worth the trip alone.
You can easily traverse to the top of S-direct from the anchor after the flake if you wanted to rap the whole thing with a 70m rope.
Oct 8, 2008
|The last pitch is very good (5.8). Don't stop after the flake! This pitch will actually give u a workout (nice change from slabbing). Nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot. The rest of the climb below is super cool too. Climb Robbins Crack while u are up there.|
By Luke Douglas
Oct 29, 2008
|Classic line, with really cool moves, bold! More traffic would clean up some of the removable chicken heads and exfoliating slab sections.|
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
The flake pitch is really good and safe with the new beefy hardware. We rapped into it from the top of S-direct and it seems like a 70m rope would make it (we had 2).
The moves off the belay are thin and the rock a bit flakey, I'd recommend lowering the belayer to the last bolt of the previous pitch to prevent a nasty fall on the anchor (1 new bolt - 2 button-heads). There's a bad piece in the roof between the belay and the 1st bolt but I'd expect it to blow. Reaching the flake requires a leap of faith or some serious levitation.
After getting back into the corner above the flake, watch for a super-flexy tongue of granite that you'd pull straight on your belayer.
The last pitch can be protected entirely with slung chickenheads until you reach the roof.
I need to get back up there and do the first two pitches...
By Micah Lewkowitz
From: Ridgway, CO
Apr 19, 2013
|I put up a trip report of Spring Fever on my site. Check it out for beta and photos: Trip Report|