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Spring Chicken 

Spring Chicken 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Robert McBride
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Recon Buck on Oct 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Spring Chicken. Not a great photo but its not a ve...

Description 

There are several excellent cracks in the lower Matrix, but this one is the longest, the hardest, and the scariest. I am not sure what you call a sit start below ground level in a cave, but suffice it to say you start quite low. Jam your way up to where it gets wide and you can jam no more; them layback the offwidth until you can top out through the hole in the roof. The jammy part is pretty casual because the ground follows you up as you climb out of the hole so the fall isn't much of a concern; the layback however has the potential to dissect you in half should you peel off. It is suggested that a pad be used to cover the obvious giant axe feature. The rating is debatable, a crack climber would probably call it 5.11. A visiting climber from the Czech Republic for example flashed it and said it was the funnest thing he had climbed in Pennsylvania, while local bouldering mutants were unable to get off the ground.

Location 

In the deepest bowls of the Matrix. Get down into the caves and at the bottom of the deepest hole is an overhanging hand crack which comes up into an offwidth that climbs up through an opening to the daylight above.

Protection 

Taping of hands is advised, its a bit course. Spotter holding a pad above the sharp rock.


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By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Nov 12, 2014
rating: V2-3 5+

This thing is so rad. One of the best cracks in Pennsylvania. And it's 5.11. Also, if you don't want to lay it back some offwidth technique can be applied. But yeah that block behind you is concerning for sure.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 12, 2014

I was looking at this a couple days ago while I was down in PA, its on the short list for my next trip to Gretna!!! Looks stellar!
By Recon Buck
Nov 13, 2014

Yeah Seth, I had originally assumed I would do some off-width moves, but it was so full of this really sharp grit that I didn't try. Even the lower crack would shred tape gloves after a couple of laps. Might have cleaned up a bit now. Really fun though. Chet and Bish were there pretending to spot me (Chet was up top and said he had a foot behind me) the first time I topped it out. Then the two of them gave it a try and never having jammed before didn't really get anywhere. I was greatly amused since their warmups were my projects. Good times.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 15, 2014
rating: V3 6A

Rooobert! Hey, I did climb this funky thing after a couple of visits. I really did. It is solid 5.11, now that I have a rack and know how to JAM a crack. And just so you know, Chet and I had your spot on your first ascent, you crack maniac! I hope you are having fun in New Zealand! Honest to god, just today I found a VHS tape of your first ascent with Chet and myself spotting you. You were panting like a dog in heat, but you sent! This was way back in 2002 or 2003. I hope you and your family are well!

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