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Nip and Tuck
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antagonism S,TR 
Arête S,TR 
Bock! T 
Boiling Point T,TR 
Caddis/Argus S 
Capital Punishment 
Constrictor T,TR 
Dan-D-Line T,TR 
Ebb Tide TR 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Gyro Captain S 
Hare Balls T,TR 
Heart Throb TR 
Hypotenuse T,TR 
Left-angling Crack T 
Lethal Dose T 
Mr. Spiffy S 
Mr. Stiffy S 
Night Train TR 
Old Dihedral T 
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 
Surprising Slab TR 
Unknown A S 
Unknown B S 
Unnamed (submitted as Doc's Route) T 

Spread Eages Dhare 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979
Page Views: 1,183
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

You're on the second, south-facing face from the west, on Tuck (confusing, perhaps); just west of a clean, curving dihedral with a tiny crack running the length of it. There are so many options here...the stated route is climbing the arete that is formed on the left edge. However, there's a fun and tricky move moving onto the ledge about 10 feet off the ground on the left side. From there, move up underclings, grab, and mantel another huge and solid ledge. Follow up and right to an easier finish.

Protection 

Long slings for TR, standard rack for trad.


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By hwendlandt
Oct 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A little confusing. The arete blows, with lichen everywhere and not but maybe one section of good movement, certainly no more than 5.7, excepting the chance or a big TR swing, but the obvious crack between the arcing dihedral and the arete (a nameless crack apparently) is a really fun route, and runs a solid 5.9 imho.