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Sportsman's Paradise 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mark Bennett, Thomas Koch, Bill Robins 1987
Page Views: 724
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jun 27, 2010

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Pulling the lip on pitch 3 as the route is describ...

On private land. MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1- From the belay boulders climb up, then right around the edge of the first steep wall. Move back left and set up a belay with gear. (5.6)
Pitch 2- Climb a steep boulder problem near the right edge of the next steep wall splitting the slabs. Above the boulder problem bulge, easier climbing leads up a right leaning dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, move back left on easy slab to a belay anchor below the next thin roof crack. (5.11)
Pitch 3- Climb the next roof using the thin crack which widens slightly at the lip. As it says in the Ruckman Guide, "a mini separate reality". Above the roof, I continued up and right past a bolt to a belay anchor on a slab. (5.10) -the original belay atop this pitch was in a group of trees. Those trees are now dead and could probably be easily pulled out. Better to belay up and right at the bolt anchor.


To the right of Western Grebe is an area of slabs divided by steep walls and roofs. Scramble up and go right along a steep wall until reaching a nice belay spot in boulders.


A set of cams from small tcu's to about #3 camalot size. Stoppers.

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By mountainsense
Jun 27, 2010

strong work, ben! i've wondered about those lines...
By Ben Folsom
Jun 28, 2010

Actually, the second pitch offwidth is a variation to the left called the Duck Waddle Variation, which I posted yesterday as well. The second pitch (1st after the easy approach pitch) is to the right of that offwidth and makes some funky moves up a bulge to a right leaning/right facing corner.
Yeah, the finger lock over the roof was full of sand/gravel, which took some time to dig out while my other arm was getting wildly pumped. It's still not clean, but enough to get a middle finger in enough to do the move.

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