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Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Irby, Hickok
Page Views: 152
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Mar 8, 2012

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Turn at 313 and cross the rail tracks. If you park at the paved pullout where the information site is and then x-country over to the Cutler band below the talus slope, there are a couple routes. Don't remember if we ever got around to really naming these routes. Short approach. Not really chossy but possibly grainy and a little sandy in some sections. We didn't have to clean this up too much at all on the FAs.

SORRY the info here is so minimal. I can't remember details, had no photos, and will probably expand this sometime (maybe).


Climb 1: Primarily face climbing past a few bolts leads to a short crack finish (fingers and hands). Single rope. 5.10d (FA: P Irby, Hickok)

Climb 2: Face climbing up to and then across a crack(slot?). Continue up to a crux move at a small bulge. Single rope. 5.11- (FA: J Hickok, Irby)


Climb 1: Mixed. Bring a few finger to hand pieces.

Climb 2: Bolted line.

Comments on Sport/Mixed Climbing Near 313 Turnoff Add Comment
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By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Mar 9, 2012

Joel, If I remember correctly you were calling this crag the Witches Tongue?
By J. Hickok
Mar 19, 2012

Hmmm... maybe Paul was calling it Witches Tongue? I don't recall that name, but then again my memory can be fuzzy. Maybe there should be a separate area for this instead of adding it as a single route, and then the two routes can be subdivided. Maybe not... there is only two routes so far after all.
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 12, 2012

I climbed here once with Jimmie Dunn in the early 1990s. When he lived in Moab then, he climbed a bunch of the cracks on that Cutler outcrop and used to come and do laps on the best ones.
By J. Hickok
Mar 31, 2014

Stewart, it's possible you are referring to another Cutler outcrop between 313 and town where cracks are slightly more prominent. There are documented ascents by Jimmy on that formation. However, it is highly likely you, Jimmy, and several others may have climbed here over the years without leaving any signs behind.
By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 23, 2015

Any additional information on these routes?

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