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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,994
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
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BETA PHOTO: Beat photo of the start


This route is very featured at the start and gets harder and steeper as you go up.


This route is the first one on the right on this wall. It is on a formation by itself and has extremely featured rock at the start. It is approximately 20 feet to the right of Mordor.


6 or so bolts to chains. Please don't toprope out of the chains.

Photos of Sporte Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Caleb in the light rainbow... hes the man
Caleb in the light rainbow... hes the man

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 31, 2016
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2006

Does anyone know if this is the 5.10X trad route in Toula's old guide called Sporte?
By Tavis Ricksecker
Dec 11, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first bolt of this climb might need to be replaced soon. Not only is the hanger spinning, but the bolt itself is loose in its hole. The crux of this climb could seem hard if you're trying to pull through on brute strength, but with careful footwork its not too bad.
By Dean Hoffman
Jul 15, 2008

New anchors should be finished by this afternoon, with good chains. Thanks to Stan Mish for the use of his hand drill ( he also offered up some ole "no gud" hangers but I didn't want to scare the kiddos!) and to Chris T. for saving the day with a power drill. Who knew hand drilling in limestone could be such a pain in the ass. Enjoy
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 15, 2008

Dean, chains are great and thank you for your community service. If you prefer I'll donate a set of MussyHooks™ for the top.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 17, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice work by Dean and Chris Tatum to get new anchors put up on this route. Now it has two bolts with chains on the top out ledge.
By Dean Hoffman
Mar 11, 2009

Just a "heads up" literally, about halfway up this route is a block around the size of the old block on Mordor with significant fracture lines almost all the way around it. I know, I know True Value has looked like that for year, but might be good to try and avoid this.
By tim maloney
Mar 12, 2009

First led ground up on (shady) gear by Andy Marquardt.
By Tyler Williams
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Jimmy - sounds like The Abyss - 11a, awesome route.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

10c w an 11a move near the top
By karl vochatzer
From: Cedar City, UT
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Good mid-10 climbing until one move near the last or second to last bolt (it's been a couple of weeks since climbing it) unless you are tall. Seemed a tad easier than Mordor to the left.
By SHOPE Christian
From: Corvallis, OR
Feb 23, 2013

Chalk goes to the right near the end. the easy on route finish is a side pull to the left left of the bolt.
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 16, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Huge bird nest at the last bolt but maybe old. If I recall at the top is like a big round rock ball with a few good underclings. Great kneebar there too. Ended up going left a little, high right foot on the ball and grabbing a right hand side pull. Fun.
By Daniel Slosky
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sporte is one of my favorite routes around Flagstaff. The crux is up high and goes around 11a on-sight, but once you know the moves and can manage your pump, it falls into the 10 range

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