Sport Climbing near San Diego (+/- 90miles)

Hello! We are two female climbers going to be in the San Diego area in mid April for only one week. We are looking for the best areas to lead and/or top rope on routes rated about 5.8-5.10. We will not have rope or clips with us, so is renting possible anywhere around there? Any advice, suggestions, tips, etc.. would be MUCH appreciated! Thank you :)

Unfortunately I don't know of anywhere that will rent safety gear for outdoor use. REI will rent shoes, and possibly helmets, but they won't rent harnesses, ropes, etc., unless you're going with one of their guided trips/classes. Honestly, I probably wouldn't trust any gear from a place that rented it, anyway: way too many unknown factors for me to be comfortable. But that's me.

Since you need gear, you might consider hiring a guide. I've climbed with Paul at Hangtime Climbing, and he taught the Self-Rescue class I took. I would happily climb with him again, for what it's worth, though I've never hired him as a guide.

In terms of locations, both Mission Gorge and El Cajon Mountain would have what you're looking for. Leonids and Meteor on ECM are two of my favorite routes of all time, and assuming that at least one of you is comfortable leading outdoor 5.9-10a, definitely plan on one or both of those. They're both fully bolted (many would argue over-bolted, but I think that's a contradiction of terms), with excellent, safe anchor stations. They can also both be climbed and rapped with a single rope. If you're comfortable with multi-pitch the upper pitches on both of those are WELL worth your time; the first pitches are pretty good, too. I definitely recommend a helmet if you're going to climb at ECM, too. It's a fairly new crag and as such still has more rockfall than average.

Mission Gorge has a decent amount of stuff you can scramble up the back of to get on, if you don't want to lead things, but actually finding the routes can be tricky. That said, the approach is short, and the Old Mission Dam hike is cool to do. Lots of history in the area, if you're into that sort of thing, too.

Hope that helps!

I think Michael pretty well covered it. San Diego is more known for trad and bouldering, but there are a few options around.

Mission Gorge definitely has some sport climbing in the range you're looking for. Mission Control, the Tower, and Suzie's Wild Ride are some of the easier sport classics.

El Cajon is awesome, but the approach is pretty brutal-- an hour plus of non-stop uphill.

One option he didn't mention was Riverside Quarry, which is at the edge of your 90 mile range (1.5 hrs if you avoid rush hour). Most of the climbing there is in the 11-12 range, but the Schoolhouse and Fun Factory areas have a bunch of routes in the 10 and under range.

I've also never heard of any place willing to rent ropes or quickdraws. If you can't find a way to bring those with you, your best bet is to team up with a local. Offer to exchange beer for gear and I can't imagine you'll have any trouble finding someone.

Thank you so much Michael and Andrew for the tips and advice! Happy climbing!

New Jack City has a lot of sport climbing, but its a couple hours from SD.

I would also recommend the gorge for a quick excursion close to SD. El Cajon is definitely the best quality "sport" climbing. Plan for a full day of climbing (longer approach/drive). I wouldnt recommend riverside quarry if your only in town for a short period (its very un aesthetically pleasing and many of the routes are modified). PM if you wanna borrow some draws and a rope.

Maybe something to consider with the 90 miles of drive time is the approach time once there. Riverside Quarry and New Jack City have basically zero approach time. They may be a bit further out, but you can get right down to business. NJC has a broader range of grades. Quarry is concentrated in the 11-12s and the low grades it has (sub 10) aren't its greatest examples.

Hand.jammin wrote:I wouldnt recommend riverside quarry if your only in town for a short period (its very un aesthetically pleasing and many of the routes are modified).

I don't know of anyone that will rent but if you dont find any options pm me. I am available during the week and have ropes, draws, and a knowledge of the mission gorge sport routes I would be happy to show you guys around.

There's also Corte Madera if you're up for the approach. Fun climbs in a beautiful location.