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Spooner Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caught in a Mosh S 
Crimp Tuff S 
Fire and Ice S 
Forget About It S 
Hangar 18 S 
Jello Wars S 
Maxwell's Hammer T 
Night Cap S 
Nightcrawler S 
Pocket Pool S 
Pot Belly S 
Spoonman S 
Stepping Out S 
Unknown 5.10+ (The Monkey Swing) S 
Yellow Finger S 

Spooner Crag Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.1002, -119.9139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,436
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gill on Apr 5, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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great little power route up the overhanging arete ...


Crag hidden in the trees above the junction of NV 28 and US 50 on the east shore of tahoe. Small formation of volcanic tuff about 100 feet tall. Two sides yield about a dozen moderates. SW face is more challenging. South face little easier. Mostly sport climbing and one trad 5.8 with one bolt. Can climb in winter, gets great sun, may have snow on the ground.

Getting There 

Pull into the parking lot at the junction of NV 28 and US 50 a few miles west of Spooner Summit. It is on the westide of hwy 28 hundred yards down from the junction. The parking lot is long. Park anywhere but hike west (uphill) in the middle of the parking lot. Many small foot trails lead to the rock about 200 yards from the parking lot. Biggest rock on the ridge. About hundred feet tall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spooner Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spooner Crag:
Maxwell's Hammer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Night Cap   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 125'   
Forget About It   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Jello Wars   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spooner Crag

Featured Route For Spooner Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: great little power route up the overhanging arete ...

Spoonman 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Nevada : Lake Tahoe : Spooner Crag

Photos of Spooner Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first move is the crux
first move is the crux

Comments on Spooner Crag Add Comment
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By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Jul 24, 2010
There are quite a few routes at Spooner that are not in the old Falcon Guide. The names are Unknown to me. When I post a route that in not in the old guide I will just name it unknown with the next number behind it. But, if anyone knows the names or the FA post a comment on the route page and I will change it.
By Kenny Thompson
From: Cottage grove oregon
Jul 24, 2010
Look in carvilles guidebook.
By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Oct 4, 2010
Hanger 18 is mentioned being to the right of Pot Bell. Is it the route with the rock
stack for the start? What is hanger 18 rated at?
By Blitzo
Oct 13, 2010
Hanger 18 is 5.11b.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Feb 25, 2011
Anyone know what the route just left of the first pitch of "Nightcap" is? The direct start looks 5.13ish. I've always liebacked off the right facing flake then traversed in. Lots of fun, especially if you fall at the 2nd bolt! The way I do it it feels 10b to me.

Since I've only been climbing here for a few years I didn't post the route; thought I should let someone with more seniority do it.
By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Mar 6, 2011
Hey Josh,
I have been e-mailing about the route to the left of night cap to a few people and no one knows or remembers the route. I too can't climb the direct but the traverse variation at the right feels like a few moves of V2. I say that because we would bring our pads skip the first bolt and clip the second and then move up. Using the pads as pertection for the fist 15 feet, better than swinging in my oppinion. My converter on the old iphone says a V2 is .11a/b. I know the route isn't that hard, it is just reachy. Would like to find out the true name and grade the FAist put to it. Can anyone help Josh and I? Someone has to know this route. It is the only one I haven't been able to find.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 6, 2011
Hi Gill,

Thanks for the reply. You're more ballsy than me to climb to the second bolt! It looks a long way down from up there. Even if we never find out the name or first ascentionist, it sure is a fun climb and always remains challenging, at least for me.
By Stone Brew
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 8, 2015
I went to Spooner yesterday and just wanted to clarify for people going there for the first time. The routes are mostly less than 50 ft long, granite, but a few of good quality. Pretty little place to climb on a sunny winters day.
By Melinda Russell
May 15, 2016
Checked out Spooner Crag for the first time yesterday and noticed a few boulders spread out around the rope-climbing area. Was wondering if anyone had information on these boulders and the route grades. They were really fun, but can't seem to find any information, although I'm sure they're all established. Thanks in advance for any help!

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