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Spook Eyes 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Piana, 1999
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2011

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Spook Eyes climbs the brutal low bulge, then a ste...


This truly outstanding wall of pockets is guarded by a brutal one-move boulder problem passing the first bolt. This move looks much harder than it is, and an unnecessarily low first bolt adds to the intimidation factor. However, the upper panel offers some of the best moderate pocket climbing in the Canyon, so stick clip the second bolt and give it a try if you're in the mood for some european-quality limestone.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then step left from the ledge to reach a pair of sinker pockets. The crux move gains a big jug and a few positive edges to establish on the hanging wall. Weave back and forth between sinker pockets and the odd edge, generally easing with height towards the obvious flowstone bulge. Follow big huecos over the fun bulge to the anchor.


On the far right side of the Killer Cave is an elevated ledge behind a large juniper-pine. Five routes begin from this ledge, Spook Eyes being the furthest left, beginning from the far left end of the sloping ledge. Immediately left of Second-Hand Nova.


~10 bolts, 3BA. Stick clip recommended.

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