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Spook Canyon

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Spook Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.00024, -106.9823 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,625
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009

74° | 55°

84° | 58°

76° | 51°

74° | 53°

77° | 55°

72° | 45°
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Big move to the pocket


Nice east facing wall with a handful of sport routes a couple of trad lines and a good amount of bouldering. Morning sun and afternoon shade so plan morning of afternoon climbing according to temperature. Most of the sport routes are 5.12 and up with one 5.11a and at least one line that is still a project. The rock here has lots of the really small pockets (that you can't get fingers into) that make some of the holds quite sharp and some nice bigger pockets. For some reason with the fracturing the majority of the holds face left.

Getting There 

Before you get to the Box turn off of hwy 60, turn left at the end of the first guard rail on that side where you can see a bunch of roads and a cross. Stay to the left away from the cross and follow this road for about .5 miles to the second right turn, the first is more of a two track. At the right there is a big open area, stay to the left and pick up the road. Follow this road about .6 miles to a rectangular parking area that has been nicely outlined with rocks. Big enough for maybe 6 cars plus. You will see an old steep road with lots of loose rocks leading up to the wall.

Climbing Season

For the The Box climbing areas area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spook Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spook Canyon:
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau (B)   V8 7B     Boulder, 1825'   Spook Main Wall
Miner Slab   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 40'   Wallflower Wall
Venetian Tailor   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 40'   Spook Main Wall
Ride the Lightning   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 45'   Spook Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spook Canyon

Featured Route For Spook Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: DTP using the undercling that broke to gain the si...

Ride the Lightning 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  New Mexico : Socorro Area : ... : Spook Main Wall
Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors.Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

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