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Splitters in Red Rock.
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Feb 17, 2012
Do you know of a splitter crack in Red Rock that is not in any guidebook? Not a climb that "was ok, I guess.."... When you saw it and climbed it you said, "That was F#*ing SICK!!"
An unknown jewel if you will...
David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Joined Jan 22, 2012
5 points
Feb 17, 2012
There are a couple. But, you should do some legwork and find them for yourself. Don't you think it hurts better when you find them on your own? Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Feb 18, 2012
Funny coming from a guy who considers Handbone "Worth the hike for the best splitter of its grade in Red Rock. Is there another route of this quality in the Park? Show me."

If that's your idea of a sick climb, don't bother.

Have no fear, I will be finding my own routs... but I won't be keeping them a secret! :p
David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Joined Jan 22, 2012
5 points
Feb 18, 2012
Still at it David, The locals here are so secretive.. I wonder what they are hiding.. -robin-
Joined Feb 26, 2010
30 points
Feb 18, 2012
Handbone is worth the hike. Hiking into unknown places is what it will take, I guess, for you to find that splitter is fucking sick. If you're interested in going for a hike I'd be down. Let me know. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Feb 20, 2012
Sounds good, lets go. I'm don't have a job, so I'm available anytime David Donovan
From Sammamish, Washinton
Joined Jan 22, 2012
5 points
Feb 21, 2012
I haven't climbed it but this looks pretty splitter and less traveled.

Honcho Imposter



Another one that didn't make the latest Handren guide but fits your "That was F#@$ing Sick." For me, this was this that kind of gem. Very Herbstish style so bring your wide skills.

The Black Pearl
Karsten
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2006
2,145 points
Feb 22, 2012
Those look pretty damn good. I've only viewed Honcho from the trail but it looks like a fine climb.

This isn't in any guidebook and is a pretty varied climb: Step Into The Squeezer
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Feb 22, 2012
Here are a couple of decent crack climbs:

This one is only 5.8 but a fun little adventure:

mountainproject.com/v/kick-in-...


This one is quite good. The first pitch is really quality climbing with a variety of crack sizes...and true to Red rock a little face.:

mountainproject.com/v/beer-run...

You could climb Beerrun, then do Kick...

Have fun!

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,440 points
Feb 23, 2012
One of the more consistent (good climbing) breaks in all of Red Rock has to be on the route Ixtlan. We did it yesterday. The crack actually extends damn near from bottom to top on Whisky Peak. But the unique outward bend split on pitch two (5.10a) that eventually turns into one of the purest off width splitters (5.10d) I have climbed is unique and has always caught my attention over the years walking by it en-route to Black Velvet wall. The 5.11c or 12a bolted starts has no doubt barred some entry. But the manky upper pitch bolts might feed into that as well. Reality is, just go ahead and carry a C4 #6 or possibly two. If the extra weight really affects your climbing prowess, you are no doubt a 5.13 climber anyway. The whole route is worth doing...the upper 5.9 pitches (and rock) is quite good by Red Rock standards.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ixtlan
Ixtlan
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Feb 23, 2012
Karsten:

I saw that thing "Black Pearl' when Larry and I went up next to it to do a route.

F%#@k'n sic is right.

Looks a little scary(run out, close to ground fall) getting up and into the pod that your in, in the picture ?
trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Joined Aug 18, 2007
45 points
Feb 23, 2012
There is a short but sweet looking IC style splitter that, judging from the few little rocks that should be popped out of it, is just waiting for an FA. It is the summit block of Hollow Rock Peak (above the Disappearing Buttress.) It starts with hands and goes to OW. Additionally it splits the entire block, so on the other side it is a finger crack that runs up through the back of a wide pod and a short roof (twofer FA's.) They are unfortunately short, more like highball boulder problems, and have a substantial approach, which is probably why no one has claimed them, but they sure are purty! cassondra long
Joined Nov 26, 2008
90 points
Feb 23, 2012
I just climb choss all day, Killis! Sorry I didn't make it out today- I vomitted in my coffee (not really, but almost) and have been laying in bed all day. Kuehl had a stomach bug and I think I caught it. Splitters man... they don't exist. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,068 points
Feb 24, 2012
cassondra wrote:
There is a short but sweet looking IC style splitter that, judging from the few little rocks that should be popped out of it, is just waiting for an FA. It is the summit block of Hollow Rock Peak (above the Disappearing Buttress.) It starts with hands and goes to OW. Additionally it splits the entire block, so on the other side it is a finger crack that runs up through the back of a wide pod and a short roof (twofer FA's.) They are unfortunately short, more like highball boulder problems, and have a substantial approach, which is probably why no one has claimed them, but they sure are purty!


That splitter on the southeast side starts out overhanging #4's. Then it turns to OW/chimney a little higher. It looked pretty burley.

Scary Larry and I climbed the other route. It was pretty fun and checked in at the 10 range. I don't even remember what the name was though.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,065 points
Feb 24, 2012
Funny thing about Black Pearl is that if they'd waited a week, the FRA would have been Bruce Bindner (Brutus of Wyde) since we walked right up to their fresh cairn just after the FRA (which we knew nothing about)...and instead did a couple of other nice cracks - this one in particular is a fun crack, although it'd be best to borrow a second #4 bigbro to supplement your one (or 2 if you don't have one...but if you don't already have one you might want to pass...):
mountainproject.com/v/balsamic...
Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,410 points
Feb 24, 2012
Glad to hear you and Larry climbed the west side, Matt. It looked really interesting and attractive. I scrambled around to the cleft in the SE side (a bit of an adventure in itself with the exposure) and touched the bottom of it. it started at hand size for me, and I might add that my hands are not particularly large. I agree with you, it looked pretty burly. cassondra long
Joined Nov 26, 2008
90 points
Feb 24, 2012
cassondra wrote:
Glad to hear you and Larry climbed the west side, Matt. It looked really interesting and attractive. I scrambled around to the cleft in the SE side (a bit of an adventure in itself with the exposure) and touched the bottom of it. it started at hand size for me, and I might add that my hands are not particularly large. I agree with you, it looked pretty burly.


You must have been at the very bottom then. I only peaked at it from the side, which looked possible to get to from the west about halfway up.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,065 points


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