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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,901
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Pulling through the Crux on "Splitter"

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.

P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip, the rope my force you gear into the crack. Then enjoy 60ft of splitter crack around the #2 friend size to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: Pitch 2 traverses to the right into a large hands fist crack crack to another 2 bolt anchor.

Rap with one 60M rope.


This is the obvious 1" splitter crack to the left of the large overhangs.


P1: medium hexs, 1 blue alien, 2 green aliens, 2x #0.4, 3 #0.5&0.75, 4-5 #1, 2x #2 camolots.

P2: A good selection of big hands and fist sized protection.

Photos of Splitter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Splitter
Matt on Splitter
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the first pitch of "Splitter"
Me on the first pitch of "Splitter"
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly working here way up the crack.
Kelly working here way up the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin in the tricky roof out for ...
Justin in the tricky roof out for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin passing the tricky roof and moving into the...
Justin passing the tricky roof and moving into the...
Rock Climbing Photo: The line...
The line...

Comments on Splitter Add Comment
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By wilcox510
Sep 29, 2009

Fun route, but I don't think its any harder than 11a (Harvest at the COR felt harder at 10d). I would suggest more small gear and less big gear. Once you get to the #1 Camalot size crack its pretty easy. Cams work fine down low (0.5 and 0.75 really low, then some small TCUs before and after the roof).
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jul 1, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I found this to be one of the best routes I found in COR or Castle (although I would love to go back to look at the .12 on Bradseick Spire since I didn't get a chance to look at it on my last trip.
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route, cool climbing and don't forget the second pitch which has fixed anchors, splitter as well.
By benjaminleaton Eaton
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 4, 2012

Can't wait to go back and do the second pitch. Had a lot of fun on that route. Going to force myself to climbing again only using the crack the whole way up. That will make it tough.
By Rob Phillips
Apr 30, 2013

As of April 28, 2013 there was a sizable hornets nest under the obvious flake about 10-15 feet up the route. Being allergic to hornets, bees and the like, I decided to move on. I'd love to get on this beautiful climb someday. If only I had a can of spray...
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Why spray the splitter when you can spray on here all day?
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome climb! Get on it!

The gear listed may be a little excessive. I used singles of BD #0.3-#0.75 (plus 1 yellow and 1 red alien), 3 BD #1s, 1 BD #2, two nuts below the crux, and slung a patina dinner plate.

While climbing, I was wishing I had the blue alien. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't have it since it would have pulled the rope too far into the crack. The crux itself isn't that bad. It's the post-crux pump that will get you!
By Matthew Colemere
From: Alpine, Utah
May 12, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Got to do the first pitch, which was amazing. Like Rob said, there were a lot of hornets around and they appeared to be in the flake. We waited for the shade, then went for it, and they left us alone. It added a little bit of excitement though, that's for sure.
I second that the gear list is too excessive. Single rack, with double in BD .75 and triple in BD 1 should be plenty, with a nice medium sized hex placement down low. Biggest cam placed on route was that BD 1.

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