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Split Thumb

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SE Ridge T 

Split Thumb Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,523'
Location: 58.40761, -134.31064 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 444
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Callahan on Sep 17, 2016
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This prominent thumb of rock calls out to climbers looking up from many vistas in town. The SE ridge is probably the shortest, easiest and most accessible technical alpine rock climb in Juneau and gets climbed a couple times/year. The W ridge is also easy but longer and there are supposedly some longer routes more involved routes on the South Face but I don't have any details on them.

The rock on the main thumb is good granite, with lichen covered, sometimes loose blocks higher up past the technical difficulties. The rock between the glacier and the lower flanks of the thumb are orange, rotten, buzz kill, junk rock so be careful. This section is longer the later in the season that you climb. A rap anchor exists off the lower SE ridge to the glacier.

Here is a nice trip report from 2015

Getting There 

Hike from Blackerby (Or lemon creek trail if you hate yourself) to camp 17. Cross the lemon glacier (usually cruiser) and get onto the ridge north of Scorpion Peak. Follow this ridge to the Glacier below the S face. You can also access Split Thumb from Heintzelman or via helicopter.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 11.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Split Thumb
Rock Climbing Photo: Route follows cracks on the left side of the ridge...

SE Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Alaska : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Split Thumb
Access the Southeast Ridge and continue towards the peak until reaching an obvious headwall. Rope up here and climb fun cracks to a cord adorned block and belay. Can do another pitch to the top or just scramble up 4th class to the summit....[more]   Browse More Classics in Alaska

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Rock Climbing Photo: Almost there.
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Rock Climbing Photo: Split Thumb from Observation
BETA PHOTO: Split Thumb from Observation

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