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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A good introduction to Indian Creek, Split Pinnacle tackles a tight hands to fist crack up the center of a short leaning tower. Disappointing in length, its still a nice and quick stop if you're looking to get a feel for hand cracks.
Easily accessible from the road, This is a fun route to do if you're short on time, just arriving, or looking for a mellow warm-up or warm-down.
Start by diving right in on the thinnest part of the crack. Squirm your way up the generous start until you can start burying those hands with solid jams. Keep climbing til the hands turn to fists, give a grunt and pop out on top at a chain anchor.
Located about 0.6 miles past Newspaper Rock and on the right just after the Friction Slabs is Split Pinnacle. Parking can be found just prior too and on the left by the campground. Walk down the road until the crack becomes visible. Its the only obvious splitter set about 15 off the road.
Cams from 3/4" to 4" (.75-#3 bd or equivalent). Chain anchor.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I know its not a classic, but I just love this little route. A short approach with a nice shady spot under an oak for summer climbing. I never seem to hit this climb right. Came in winter and it was freezing then came back in summer and it was cooking. Had it to ourselves, though.