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Animal World
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Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Split Personality 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy, Jake Miller, Chris Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,341
Submitted By: paul pomeroy on Apr 23, 2012

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  • Description 

    Start as for Isn't Life Strange at central Animal World. Clip the first bolt on that route, then lean left and clip a bolt at the base of the clean face. Trend up and right following a thin seam past two more bolts to a small overlap. Clip a bolt above this feature and step left (crux for all but the very tall), then go up the beautiful orange face to a double buttonhead station. Clip these with two long slings and head straight up through a large roof, left to a stance, then up through two smaller overhangs to the anchors on Talking Out of Turn.


    Split Personality is located on the central Animal World Buttress between Talking Out of Turn to the left and Isn't Life Strange to the right. This route is best approached by hiking almost all the way to Animal World right, then doubling back and up on a faint trail to a large ledge at the base of the route.


    11 QDs (including two longer slings) plus two for the anchor.

    Comments on Split Personality Add Comment
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    By ChanVan Schaack
    Aug 6, 2012

    I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'.
    By MattL
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 14, 2012
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done!
    By Brett Bessen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2016
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Great, thuggy climbing through the roof. The two buttonheads don't inspire much confidence (though they're probably ok) before starting in on the crux. The best link-up might be to head up Isn't Life Strange, clip the P1 anchors with a long sling, then head into the cool roof. The climbing before the buttonheads is fun, techy, slab climbing that is worth doing at least once, however.

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