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Beckey's Wall Area
Routes Sorted
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Date With Kate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Siesta T 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 
Unsorted Routes:

Split Fingers 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 145'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FFA - Brian Smoot 1979
Page Views: 3,911
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Climbing Split Fingers. A really, really good rou...

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From where you split right from Becky's Wall, a thin lieback leads up and right past a bolt (where an old knifeblade used to be). Then you gain a rightward undercling right, climbing underneath the large roof past another bolt. At the far end of the traverse you gain the Split Pants gully. I belayed in the gully. You can either continue up Split Pants or rappel from a tree down to the first anchors of Cheetah, and then from there to the base. An excellent route!


Start on Becky's Wall and where Becky's and the Fingertip Variation go straight up, climb right up under the large roof.


A selection of stoppers, and small cams up to a #2 camalot sized piece. There are sections where it is mandatory to punch it between gear!

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 8, 2008

This route is awesome! It was definitley cutting edge when done in pre sticky rubber EB's with pins! After leaving Beckey's wall and clipping the first bolt expect a 12+ foot run-out of delicate smears and seam liebacking before a hand size cam protects in the obvious pod. Clipping the second bolt is insecure, so be sure to protect in the pod first. After the 2nd bolt, one more hand size piece protects the second roof pod. You can build an anchor and belay from a stance at the right end of the roof (so you can see your seconding climber) with a purple tcu a small nut and a red metolius. To descend, perform an easy traverse right and rap the tree in the gully. With a singel rappel, letting the ends slip through on a 70m and a couple feet of down climbing barely puts you on the ledge for the start of what I believe is cheetah. Do it!
By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Jan 13, 2009

excellent route! The move after the micronut is spicy~
You can protect the 12+ foot runout Bheller talks about with a micro nut , its not awesome, but adequate.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 1, 2012

Beware, the crux liebacking above the first bolt is on a extremely thin seam. I would not call it a crack of any kind. No french free possible here. And it is a long way to that next placement. I'm a pansy so I did not find this climb very fun. Another bolt would increase my star rating, but props to the FA's on this one. Too hardcore for me.
By Bob Rotert
May 8, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is awesome and was feared by most back in the day. The knife blade that was originally their didn't offer much even in the form of psychological pro. Thought it was closer to 11+ back then but that was in EB's. Hell of a lead by Mr. Smoot! I did a continuation of this route with Mark Rolofson and Les Ellison. @ 1983 It adds some more run out 5.10 climbing up and left from the end of the roof and was some pretty good climbing as I recall.
We called it the Lunch Bucket variation.

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