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Split Decision 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts, April 2, 1984
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This one's a gem! Varied movement on perfect rock with protection that sometimes makes you take note of your position, but usually is exactly where you want it.

Chimney up on top of the pillar at the base of Titus (bolts) and mantle on top to contemplate the climbing above. Difficult, but doable climbing on sparse (but safe) protection brings you to good gear and fun fingerlocks in a corner. After the fingercrack pinches off, enjoy delicate stemming, arete pinching, and compression moves all the way to the chains. Awesome climbing!


Right of Pure Palm.


Gear to 1", QDs.

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By Alex Shainman
Apr 7, 2013

SD is a cool line for sure, not one of the best but there's hard climbing on good rock and engaging moves above gear and then bolt protected funkiness between arete and seam. Having the three upper bolts is nice compared to what appeared to have been short knifeblades in the seam. It's too bad the pillar is there and there isn't an uncontrived direct start. I didn't see a 1" placement and found #00-#2 TCU's and a #10 Stopper to be the best pro for the middle. Don't fall above the 2nd bolt before getting gear! The crux is a real thinker that's for sure!
By Jon Rhoderick
May 29, 2013

This is a really good route, with great movement. If your willing to do a move or two above the pure palm anchor, it's quite easy to TR it that way. There is a wrong way and a "right" way to do the top section. Don't think it's all stemming, the crux for me included an exciting dead point and insecure moves with great body tension and poor feet. 12a seems right for the grade, comparable to White Trash and Try to Be Hip.

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