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Split Decision 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: When dry
Page Views: 1,433
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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BETA PHOTO: Split Decision Topo

Description 

A fun new addition to the crag! Climb the slabby handcrack about 30' to the right of Klahanie for about 60ft before heading up the left arch/seam to new chains up and right of Klahanie.

The seam looks MUCH harder from the ground then it actually is!

Even after a 2 week dry spell in August the hand crack was wet inside, but it is easy (5.7?) so no big deal.

Our 60m made the lower off no problem, but its a LONG 60m. Tie knots in the end.

Location 

Immediately right of Klahanie, ending at an anchor up and right of Klahanie's anchor.

Protection 

Fingers to tight hand size cams. I placed two pieces between the bolts up top, but they aren't totally neccessary.


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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 18, 2011

I thought the same thing: it's a rare climb that easier than it looks from below. Good fun.
By Micahisaac
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 10, 2011

this goes with 1 blue tcu and 1 orange tcu in lieu of the bolts on the arching crack.
By Chris Sepic
From: Bend, OR
Jun 15, 2013

Guidebook calls this 10a, but I thought it was 9 or 9+. Agree with Micahisaac, not sure why the top is bolted.
By Ryan Lynne
Jun 6, 2016

The bottom crack seems to seep for quite awhile even in dry weather but it is fairly easy to work around. Once you get to the where the climb starts to arch (first bolt) this is no longer an issue.

Surprisingly fun positioning as you work your way through the arch. Makes a good climb to combo with Klahanie Crack or perhaps something climb while you wait for Klahanie Crack.
By rohanbk
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2016

Not seepy, but extremely dirty in the crack even a week or two after a solid rain.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Quite good- and while the bolts aren't strictly needed, they make it quite nice for those breaking into the grade and for those who are likely to be at the area climbing.

If you're thinking about leading it- give it a go- the falls are really safe and fun. Save a purple camalot for the gap between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

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