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Splatter Matt 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Dennis Erik Strom, Jeff Lane, Matt Eastman, December, 2002
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: steple on Jan 12, 2014

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Description 

A mantle to start, then three bolts of face climbing to a steeper section over a bulge to the 'anchor'.

Rock quality is quite poor. My friend fell three times pulling over the bulge because holds broke.

Location 

Leftmost route on Yaks Wall, right next to the 4th class corridor behind the North Yak.

Protection 

4 bolts, last bolt with chain as an anchor.


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By Brad Young
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Actually, the name of the route is Splatter Matt, not Splatter Matter.

The name comes from a fall taken during the first ascent (your friend isn't the only climber who found the rock loose). The climber who fell (Matt) was trying to climb too far up before placing another bolt; he saw a stance and a big knob though, and so he went for it. He got to the stance and grabbed the knob to pull up. And, as happens with some Pinns routes, both Matt and the knob then promptly departed the mother stone.

Matt fell, swinging and scraping the rock. He stopped a few feet off the ground. Luckily his girlfriend of the time was a wilderness first aid responder. His partners thought the name Splatter Matt was pretty funny. They never did go back and "finish" the route though, which is why it has (I think still?) a one bolt "anchor."
By steple
Jan 26, 2014

I corrected the name. I should also mention that the loose rock and the falls didn't dampen my friends spirits so the route is apparently still enjoyable.
By Brad Young
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The fact that you two were even out at the Yaks means that you must have better-than-average senses of adventure. Although it is a great place to climb, it doesn't seem to get much traffic.

The fact that your friend didn't let loose rock dampen his spirits just confirms that heightened sense of adventure. Good job to both of you.
By Brad Young
Jan 31, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Oh, Steple, I noticed that you edited in above what FA information you had. Here's the full information if you'd care to put it all in:

FA: Dennis Erik Strom, Jeff Lane, Matt Eastman, December, 2002.
By steple
Feb 23, 2014

Thank you. It certainly is a little adventure to get there, but thanks to the description in your book we had no problem finding it.

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