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Precarious rest on the edge.
This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.
Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.
This is on the left side of "The Cirque", which is an elevated amphitheatre about 50 yards north of the Teenage Prostitute area. A 10' fourth class scramble is required to access The Cirque.
5 bolts to 2BA.
Eyeing a nice mono on "Spitting Image".
Pulling around the roof on Spitting Image. Photo ...
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 21, 2011
I did not prep this line. There was a faded piece of cord tied to the first bolt, so I assume my ascent is the first. If not, please correct me. Whoever bolted this line had a great vision; it's one of the best routes I've done at Shelf.
Considering the state of the cord, I figured the route was fair game.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2011
This route is absolutely brilliant! If you want a completely unique and outstanding climbing experience, try this route.