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Spirit S 

Spirit 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 22, 2002

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Voluntary Nesting Closure Feb. 15 - July 31, 2015 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Spirit offers improbability, adventure, exposure, and a massive pump in a safe sportclimbing package. The approach has some logistical complexity, but once you're parked on the stance below the pitch, you're in for an incredible ride.

Approach: From the top of Windy Point, scramble down the ramp to the south to the downhill side of the next to last tree before spilling into the abyss. Tie off the tree with a short (10m) chunk of rope and rap down over the side to a narrow ledge with a three-bolt anchor. From this anchor, it is a full 50m (plus rope stretch) rappel to the anchor below the pitch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope! The first half of the rappel is straight down the vertical wall. Then you cross the overhanging arete and quickly find yourself hanging forty feet away from the wall in space. A slab comes back out to meet you just as you hit the knot. You should be able to kick off the wall and swing in to get the anchor. It may be possible to go all the way from the tree to the anchor below the pitch with a 60m rope. It's another 40m to the base of the wall (toproped at loose 5.9, unequipped).

Climb: Use a separate rope to lead back out. Four bolts run up the slab to the base of the overhanging arete. Amazingly, a crack of sorts heads left up the arete. Follow this out into space past six clips until it runs out. A big reach out right and a touchy mantle deposit you on the vertical wall. Eight more clips run up 5.10 and 5.11 face to the top anchor. You'll be stretching a 50m rope by the time you get there.

For the adventurous developer: A line up the middle of the overhang left of the arete remains to be equipped. This will top out at the lip between the overhang and the ramp if you can piece it together. Another variant will move left and up where Spirit breaks right off the arete. This will chase flakes up the overhanging arete all the way to the outside corner of the ramp on top. Fire up the drills!

Protection 

Eighteen quickdraws, plus stuff for two three-bolt anchors. Slings, two 50m+ ropes, a 10m short rope to get down to the top anchor, helmet, and prussiks to escape if you can't crank or wind up in space.


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