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Spirit on the Water T,S 

Spirit on the Water 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob D, Ron Olsen & Ken Cangi, 8/07.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,150
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 18, 2007

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Spirit on the water, P1, Anchored belay,

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  • Description 

    Very cool route that starts right out of the creek on the lower north face of the tower.

    P1: Step left from the starting tub and stem up the bolted corner/seam and gain the face. Cool climbing leads to a ledge and two-bolt anchor, shared with Los Pinos. 5.9+, 85'.

    P2: Step left and tip-toe up the slab past four bolts, gain a ledge and thin crack (green Alien, small blue Camalot). Climb the crack and continue up to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Los Pinos. 5.8+, 70'. Lower from here back to the top of P1.

    Descent: From the top of P1, rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.

    For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.


    From the start of Local Hero, down by the creek, walk upstream along the edge of the creek about 50', to a natural tub.

    This route is accessible only when the water level is low (late summer to mid-spring).


    P1: 7 bolts and purple (#.5) and green (#.75) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor shared with Los Pinos.
    P2: 4 bolts and small cams -- a green Alien, purple, blue (small) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks shared with Los Pinos.

    Comments on Spirit on the Water Add Comment
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    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 22, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I think the first pitch of this route is one of the better pitches on Tonnere Tower.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 15, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    You can place a nut between the second and third bolts if you so desire. This route is quite slick if it is at all wet.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 8, 2008

    Fun route. The only route I have seen that has a two bolt anchor in the rock at the bottom so your belayer doesn't go for a swim while you are climbing!
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 16, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    With all the trees and stuff, this seemed vaguely reminiscent of the scruffier bits of Borrowdale (apart from the bolts!). Sticking closely to the line of the bolts up the slab, P2 seemed just as hard as P1.

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