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Spire it up (first 2 pitches) 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: old aid route, new free route
New Route: Yes
Season: good summer climbing in the shade
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: ben ditto on Jul 2, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Spire it up is an old A4 aid route. I have begun free-ing the route and the first 2 pitches are ready to go! You can enjoy the first pitch and second pitch climbing and then easily rappel back to the base.

Pitch 1: over hanging tight hands in the dihedral. Pass the original hanging belay (fixed nuts) and proceed up and eventually left to a nice ledge and bolted rap anchor. A unique pitch due to its over-hanging nature. great stemming up high.

Pitch 2: step back right into the dihedral and climb the arc-ing line up and to the right until the crack disappears. Boulder past 2 bolts to get to the anchor. This is a really great pitch.


Rappel from first pitch with 1 70m rope. Rappel directly down from second pitch with 2 60 m ropes.

Location 

Route is located on the North face of Higher Spire. Walk up the normal trail. When pass the toe of the buttress, continue uphill toward the normal route, but hug the wall and find a small ledge that leads to a great terrace at the base of the very obvious first pitch dihedral. At this point the base of the wall is covered in trees.

Protection 

pitch 1: normal gear: 2 each .3 camalot - 2 camalot. 3 each : .5 & .75 camalot. 1 each: 3 camalot.

Pitch 2: 2 each: red c3, .3 camalot, .4 , .75 camalot. bring some small offset cams, I use a grey/purple metolious and it is bomber! smallish offset nuts.


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By Eric Gabel
Jul 6, 2016

Spire it Up 5.9 A4 gradeV, FA by Robert Newsome & Brian (Coiler) Kay, June 2000.

Nice job freeing the start Ben.

- Eric Gabel

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