Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Spire
Select Route:
Blow Chow T,TR 
Center Slab S 
Dire Spire T,TR 
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 
Hire Spire T,TR 
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 

Spire-A-Jyra 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tim Davis slaps the crux moves (5.10a) on Spire-A-...

Description 

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Right Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

From the ledge with the big tree, scramble up a loose gully to a small ledge on the right side of the Spire. The first bolt is about 10' above this ledge.

Follow a line of 5 bolts and 2 pins up the arete to the top. A #1 Camalot can be placed after the third bolt, and the second pin can be backed up with a #.75 Camalot.

The moves up the arete are fun 5.8 to 5.9.

The crux is at the top: a bulging overhang, with a reachy move to get past it. The difficulty of this move is height-dependent, and may be harder than 5.10a for shorter people.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor at the top. Rappel 80' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, good moves, airy position, and an exciting crux.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 pins, plus several medium cams (#.75 and #1 Camalots). 2-bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Spire-A-Jyra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Davis leads up the long, blunt arete of Spire-...
Tim Davis leads up the long, blunt arete of Spire-...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Right Arete route. Red = bolt, cyan = pin,...
BETA PHOTO: View of Right Arete route. Red = bolt, cyan = pin,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brendan scoping out the crux overhang.
Brendan scoping out the crux overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brendan Sheehan half-way up the arete.
Brendan Sheehan half-way up the arete.

Comments on Spire-A-Jyra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
May 6, 2004

Good, but reachy, moves over the roof. Definitely appears to be height-dependent.

The rock still needs to clean up a bit -- my second pulled off a softball sized hold from the right side of the arete.
By CharlieO
Aug 1, 2010

The right side of the right arete needs some work.
I stayed to the right of the bolt line on my second scend. There is some vegetation on this side and does not appear to have been climbed much at all. About 1/3 of the way up I grabbed a nice jug, began pulling myself up on it and it ripped right off the wall. Luckily I held onto it and it did not fall on my belayer. I was much more cautious after this and found 2 large flakes which should probably have a crowbar taken to them. If you attempt this line, be cautious. The belayer should wear a helmet and be able to seek shelter underneath the overhang right above the belay area.

Just to the left of the bolt line was an awesome route, crux was sweet!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is named Spire-A-Jyra.