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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Collum & Greg Olsen, 1989
Page Views: 1,553
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Groping around on Spineless

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Layback up the arete just right of Senior Citizens. The crux for many is just below a small overlap. Even though the bolts are all on the right side of the arete on the bottom 2/3 of the route, one may find it easier to sometimes climb on the left side.

Even when many other routes are wet, this one may be dry.


Start just right of Senior Citizens in Space.


All bolts.

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By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 2, 2013

Climbing to the left as you approach the overlap works but be aware that falling before you make that clip will send you hurtling into the wall of the dihedral behind you. At 5'1", I found this to be a difficult clip to reach. For those wanting to mitigate this risk, climbing Senior Citizens first and pre-hanging an extended draw at that spot allows you to make the clip from a safer position. I am by no means solid at the grade so your mileage may vary.

I thought this climb was excellent and interesting throughout.
Jul 20, 2015

If you're worried about falling off before the first bolt there's a 0.5 (BD) placement that will protect you nicely to the first bolt.
By Zacks
Jun 19, 2016

I really enjoyed this route once i worked out all the beta, the first time up was quite hard. I think i find a new "hold" every time lol.

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