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Spindoctor S 

Spindoctor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Sam Daley on Jan 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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just about to do the crux. Photo by Adrian Burke

Description 

Another of the Cat Wall's high quality climbs that consists of jug hauling to a crack crux.

Protection 

bolts


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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

I used to think that this was one of the best 5.8's in the park. I see it's listed as a 5.9. I did it again last week and it was fine. Certainly not one of the best. Has a nice fun bulge, but, the rock is super sharp.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The book listed this as 5.8, I see MP has it at 5.9. I say it's sandbagged even at 5.9.
When I got to the overhanging bulge it looked way harder than it should be, so I went off route (I think) to the right and did a sketchy traverse back to the bolt.

Unfortunately I didn't have time to climb it again on TR to see how it felt staying on route, but my partner also agreed it is way harder than the rating. Seems like a fun move, but don't trust the grade, and you probably shouldn't lead it unless you're comfortable with 5.10s or going off route with a big swing potential..

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