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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Parker and Jeff Folet (1990)
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 16, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Located on the Lower Tier, this crack climb is on the clean buttress to the right of Best Bet Arete. Start to the right and scramble up a 4th class corner to a ledge with an optional belay anchor. Then climb a short bit of 5.9 to an alcove with a protruding blade of rock. Step out onto the "spike" and clip a bolt out left. Move over into the beautiful overhanging crack and climb to the anchor.

You can probably get down with one 50m rope by doing a second rappel off the anchor on the ledge, but it's easier to just use a 70m so you can lower all the way to the ground.

Fun steep climbing, solid clean rock, easy for the grade, and no bolts next to the crack. One of the better routes at Pub San. Get on it.


Pro to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap.

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