||Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140'
|Original: ||WI4+ M4 [details]|
|FA: ||1999: Tom Yandon, Joe Szot|
|Page Views: ||1,695|
|Submitted By: ||Jim Lawyer on Jan 2, 2013|
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Climbers on P2 of Spike. In these conditions, ther...
Varied climbing with a dramatic finish. A favorite of Joe Szot, and named after his dog.
P1 (M4): Go up the crack past the two trees. After the second tree, traverse right to a ledge (crux). If it's snowy and the holds are hidden, this can be desperate. Once on the ledge, continue right to belay in a tree clump well right of the next pitch.
P2 (WI4+): Traverse back left on the ledges, then straight up to the spike. Get in the hidden cave behind the spike for a welcome rest. Ride the spike to its top, then go up and left on a slab to the trees.
Descent: Double rope rappel back to your packs, then another rappel down the gully.
If conditions permit, the direct is a real prize.
This route is located on the wall right of the Power Play / Lilith area, just before the lake narrows towards the outlet. Walk up to the Laceration/Reunion amphitheater, then follow the wall up and left. Scramble/solo up a steep, iced-up streambed, then up the slope another 50' to a right-leaning crack with two trees (the first tree is 10' up, and the tree is 20' up).
Standard ice mixed rack to 3".
BETA PHOTO: The route Spike, taken December 29, 2012.