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"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete T 
South Face, "Via Commune." T 

"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 15 pitches, 1350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: F. Jori and Kaethe Broske, 19 August 1909.
Season: Dry weather
Page Views: 2,609
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 25, 2011

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Maurizio "Toto" de Zanna, leading "...

Description 

The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).

This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.

Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.

Location 

The route begins at the SE base of the formation and follows the "Via Commune" for several pitches

Protection 

Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack with a few larger camming devices (#3 Camalot). Bring plenty of slings.


Photos of "Spigolo Jori," SE Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My young butt sitting on the summit, 12 September ...
My young butt sitting on the summit, 12 September ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right on the corner. "Toto" is gripping ...
Right on the corner. "Toto" is gripping ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enrico Maioni leading "Spigolo Jori" on ...
Enrico Maioni leading "Spigolo Jori" on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Toto" signing the route register, which...
"Toto" signing the route register, which...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo shows upper pitch details, which are on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo shows upper pitch details, which are on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy terrain low on the route. Can you find "...
Easy terrain low on the route. Can you find "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the 5.7+ crux.
Above the 5.7+ crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Maurizio de Zanna at the low crux, Spigolo Fiames.
Maurizio de Zanna at the low crux, Spigolo Fiames.
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing from "via Commune" onto the S...
Traversing from "via Commune" onto the S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy climbing low on the route.
Easy climbing low on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the roof and entering the diagonal offwidt...
Turning the roof and entering the diagonal offwidt...
Rock Climbing Photo: View across lower portion of wall, towards the &qu...
View across lower portion of wall, towards the &qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from low on the route, looking towards summit...
BETA PHOTO: View from low on the route, looking towards summit...

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By Rodger Raubach
Nov 25, 2011

Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.