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Spiders & Snakes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell - 1988
Page Views: 2,262
Submitted By: porter jarrard on Mar 18, 2009

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BB. on FA of Spiders & Snakes loving the Hooks!


Steep face to cruxy slab move making the transition. Start at the crack on the far left (same start as Love Wig) and follow incut holds out to the arete and the 2nd bolt. If you start directly on the arete below the 2nd bolt, the route goes at 5.12d.


Left end of big slab that is located to the right of the breakdown gulley. Immediately right of Love Wig



Photos of Spiders & Snakes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darrel Hensley leading S & S either late 1989 or e...
Darrel Hensley leading S & S either late 1989 or e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce working on S & S January 1988.
Bruce working on S & S January 1988.

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Sep 25, 2011

Bruce Burgess and I did this first using a small tree at the bottom for the starting protection then got hooks and placed the bolts maybe around 1988. It never had an R rating!
C Caldwell
Oct 30, 2011

FA. was actually done during Winter of 1988 ground up by Bruce Burgess & Chris Caldwell.
By Bennett Harris
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 11, 2011

I felt that this was a very sustained climb, with a few "cruxy" sections and some heady difficult moves high above bolts. Take a small cam or two for the very top.
By Jamie Ervin
Jan 1, 2013

I totally agree with you Bruce! I hangdogged this thing yesterday and I'm still thinking about it. One question: does the route traverse over to the first bolt from the left or does it start on the arete to the right of the bolt? I tried both ways and found them both to be pretty difficult.
By BruceBurgessNC Burgess
Jan 6, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I start way left at a crack and gun for it. Haven't done the direct start, but if I did, I'd just stick clip the 2nd bolt.

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