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(p) Spiderman Buttress
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First Ascent Crack T 
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Out of Harm's Way T,S 
Spiderman T 
Spiderman Variation T 
Squashed Spider S 
Stiff Little Fingers S 

Spiderman Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,616
Submitted By: EugeneGuy on Sep 9, 2008

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Stems, cracks, even some ledges, what more could y...

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This is a really fun climb, done Trad as a single pitch, or as the start to Spiderman. There's really no crux to speak of (on this single pitch), just sustained, fun, climbing. Be very careful if lowering off, as a 60 M rope might not quite make it, and downclimbing the last few feet might be required.


Climb the obvious Open Book immediately to the left of Squashed Spider. Lower off the chains at the belay station for Spiderman, or finish on Spiderman. (A 60 meter rope is needed, and even so, be careful when lowering, it's stretched to the limit)


Standard Rack

Photos of Spiderman Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe on his way up.
Joe on his way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiderman Variation
BETA PHOTO: Spiderman Variation
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Spiderman Variation, from the belay s...
Looking down Spiderman Variation, from the belay s...

Comments on Spiderman Variation Add Comment
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By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 25, 2008

This is a good first trad lead as pro is abundant and the angle is such that you can place gear with both hands in many spots.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
May 29, 2017

Some thoughtful moves at the top to keep things interesting on this route
By Carl Schaefer
From: Boulder, CO
16 hours ago

A 60m is more than enough to lower from the first set of anchors (where this Variation meets Spiderman). If you continue up from there to the 2nd anchor (top of Spiderman pitch 2) the best descent option with a 60m rope is to rappel down the Spiderman side; this works (without a lot to spare) because the ground on that side is higher than on the Variation side. If you continue from the 2nd anchor to the top, the fastest & easiest descent is to walk-off to climber's right.

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