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Suction Gully
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Spider Walk 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,286
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 6, 2007

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Scott and his daughter Riley

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To get to the first belay; climb up to the leaning boulder. This is NOT a 4th class scramble (more like a 5.6), and it is short and unprotectable.
P1: Belay from the large boulder on the south side. Climb up and right of an overhang; above the overhang go left toward a pocketed face. There are two bolts on this face (2nd bolt is hard to see until you are on it toward the top of the wall). To the left there will be a chained rap station, clip one of the bolts with a 48"+ runner or there will be rope drag. Follow a water trough up to a two bolt belay on the main wall.(~160')
P2: This pitch has three bolts (hard to see) w/ sparse pro. The pitch trends up and right and will eventually lead to a two bolt anchor on the left side at the mouth of the gully/chimney pitch. (~150')
P3: Follow the gully until you need to start chimneying up. Belay from a two bolted
anchor out right from the chimney - on top of a huge boulder. (~160') P4: Directly across from the belay there is a crack system. The "spiderwalk" pitch involves stepping across to the main wall, traversing right on the face for about 35', then climbing up and left to the crack system. The rock is choss and there is little protection.
Variation to P4: Step across to the main wall and climb the crack to the top. A large boulder is slung for belaying/rapping. (~90') To reach the summit, crawl through The Eye at the top of this pitch and (4th class)scramble to the top.
Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.

Location 

This route is located on the immediate right side of the entrance to Suction Gully below the obvious boulder leaning on a ledge.

Protection 

Draws (runners), stoppers and cams.


Photos of Spider Walk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spider Walk
BETA PHOTO: Spider Walk
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of North buttress on right with spider walk ...
Photo of North buttress on right with spider walk ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of spider walk and North buttress from top o...
Photo of spider walk and North buttress from top o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike follows the 2nd pitch. Very cool face climbin...
Mike follows the 2nd pitch. Very cool face climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting across the "Spiderwalk" pitch.
Starting across the "Spiderwalk" pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: headed to the base of spider walk
headed to the base of spider walk
Rock Climbing Photo: headed back to the car
headed back to the car
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice, good rappel bolts on Spider Walk.
The nice, good rappel bolts on Spider Walk.
Rock Climbing Photo: scott and rileys shadows trying to catch up to the...
scott and rileys shadows trying to catch up to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: scott and riley
scott and riley
Rock Climbing Photo: scott and riley
scott and riley
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Spider Walk (Pitch 4), with A...
BETA PHOTO: View from the top of Spider Walk (Pitch 4), with A...
Rock Climbing Photo: View south from the top of Spider Walk (Pitch 4). ...
View south from the top of Spider Walk (Pitch 4). ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old bolts are gone nice new bolts in there place
Old bolts are gone nice new bolts in there place
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the false pitch two.THIS IS WHAT YOU...
BETA PHOTO: At the top of the false pitch two.THIS IS WHAT YOU...
Rock Climbing Photo: aaron on p5
aaron on p5

Comments on Spider Walk Add Comment
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By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

If you are going to spider walk pay close attention to these several things:
At the end of the first pitch one of the bolts has sheared/pulled. I found the hanger laying on the ground. This leaves one old bolt for a double rope rap with no other options for pro. Instead of rapping all the way to the ground we rapped from the single bolt to a good rap station half way down the first pitch which I had not seen on the way up. This would be a single rope rap, and then another single rope rap to the start of pitch one, and then another short rap to the ground.
Also, we got off route on the second pitch because I did not go far enough right, and ended up on a huge ledge above and left of the correct end of the second pitch. From here we decided to bail and did a rope stretching double rope rap back to the single bolt at the top of pitch one from a four piece gear anchor someone had left (2 nuts, flex cam, and red tricam). However, we were not able to pull the ropes even though they were not caught on anything. If you find yourself in this position on this huge ledge, single rope rap down and around to the climbers right to find the correct rap station, then set up another rap from that station which you will have to use to pull your original rope. You can then single rope rap to the first bolt on the second pitch which is on a flat spot and not too too sketchy for another short rap to the top of the first pitch.
In order to figure this all out I had to prusik up a 200 foot stuck double rap not once but twice. It was really quite an amazing situation but we got down without dying or leaving any ropes. When in the superstitions I have learned to simply be happy with not loosing my life.
By Alan Holzkopf
From: Mesa, AZ
Mar 15, 2009

ATD (partner) and I just completed this route today. It was my second time - first time was in 2006 when there were a few more bolts in place. There is still only one, ancient, rusty, button-head bolt, along with its rusted hanger, at the top of P1. This is currently the only rap protection from this point since there is nothing to sling and nowhere for pro. The bolt anchors atop P2 and P3 are still in tact, but are equally as ancient. We used the intermediate rap station partway down P1 but it too needs replacement.

This route is in great need of retro bolting. The views from the route are spectacular and make for an enjoyable day in the Superstitions. But due to the poor rock quality and due to all of the anchor bolts looking as if they are ready to blow, I will not be back on this one until I know its been redrilled with new hardware.

One other caution - the hike down along the scree back to Siphon Draw Trail is quite loose. If you are prone to clumsiness then you may want to keep your helmet on while hiking down the climber trail.
By falke
Mar 7, 2011

The rest of the thread contains great info. If you are planning to climb this - I recommend reading it all. Here are few updates and additional beta for the route:

• The top of ALL pitches now have great new solid anchors.
• The anchors at the top of pitch 3 are on the south-west side of the large bolder at the top of the chimney (they are very hard to find if you don't know this)
• Bring a large cam for pitch 4. I didn't have one big enough, but wished I did. Pitch 4 is the shortest pitch (90 feet).
• Aside from P4 this climb is run-out. If you place a lot of gear then you will experience extreme rope-drag. We had serious drag with very minimal gear placement.
• There are 5 great rappel stations (an extra 1 is halfway down pitch 1). When you rappel, keep in mind where your rope will hang. Leave your rope so that when you pull it you minimize the possibility of your rope sliding into potential hangup spots.
• The pitch 4 anchors are 1,020ft (311 meters) above the siphon draw trail (I brought my rangefinder to get some exact distances).

Great exposure, great fun.
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Mar 12, 2011

Climbing is moderate, but if this is near your limit you will feel run out. I guess we linked 2-3. From the boulder (p1) I climbed up past anchors (only 50 feet or so) to the anchors before the chimney, it was a stretch. The bolts did not seem obvious, but arrive when you need them. There are a couple of fun climbs at the top of this route in the cove, which then allow you to scramble up to the highest points of the spires. Climb gets sun into the afternoon. Nice on the cooler days.
By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

did this route over the weekend. 2nd belay station has 2 new bolts but the right bolt is loose. the hangar and the bolt wiggle around with light to medium force applied. we rapped off this but backed up the first guy with a quickdraw from the good bolt to the loose one. i dont think it would blow just from rapping but it is something to look for. the old bolts with the thin hangars are still there and are solid.
great views on this route definitely worth doing if you dont mind runouts.
By Brendalicious
Jan 13, 2013

FYI...halfway up the 2nd pitch there is a swarm of bees approx 5feet to the left of the route. They are quiet when they are cold but become active once the sun hits them. Thankfully they were so cold and grougy they didnt come out for long but am sure they will get much more active in warm weather. Bee careful!
By DSloan
Feb 25, 2013

Climbed on Saturday and saw no bees. Fun time.
By walmongr
From: Gilbert AZ
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Like most routes in the sups it was worth doing once, not much loose stuff except in the gully/chimney pitch. All the belays and bolts are in great shape(the few their are anyway)... Only advice is you can rap from the top of 2 all the way to the rap anchors off left of pitch 1 (60m ropes) but be careful as the rope may go over the west side of the hump where pitch one stops and get hung up. We had one guy stop at the anchors atop pitch-1 and the others go all the way to the last rap anchors and we pulled the ropes from the top of pitch one and a person did an extra rap made pulling them easy from pitch-2 rap.
By JT Moree
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 8, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

> When in the superstitions I have learned to simply be happy with not loosing my life.

"Haha." I thought when I read that. then I climbed this route. Holy Crap! Read ALL the comments before climbing this route and memorize them. I printed them and brought the paper on the climb. We still had a lot of problems.

P1. Beta is pretty good.

P2. DO NOT go straight up or left. I posted a picture of the sketchy gear you rap off of if you go straight up. Check it out. In addition, the bee hive is straight up. You will be throwing rope at it and rapping over it if you go the wrong way. We saw a few bees.

You have to go far right. Find 3 bolts. If you do not find 3 bolts you are off route and may be sorry.

That said, I dont think I found the 3rd bolt and entered the chimney at the giant bird poop stain. From there it was easy climbing to find the 2nd belay station but bad rope drag because I had placed pieces down in the chimney. It would have been easy to miss the anchors if I had not been paying attention because I was down in the chimney too soon I think.

P3. Long but manageable. Good beta

P4. Beta does not do it justice. For the first half everything you grab feels like it is going to come off or actually does. In addition, there is nowhere to put pro as you traverse 35 foot right on choss 3000 ft above the valley--at least if you fall there is not much below to hit but it would be a really nasty swing and ascent back up the rope.

We topped out at sunset so didn’t get to see anything above the climb. Seems like an area with spires that have nice views. I want to go back to get pics but pitch 4 again? Not sure I want to do that.