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Spider Rain 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Ris, Ryan Haeseley, Kevin Sigmund
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: geoffrey.ris on Mar 27, 2016

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Stacked roofs to finish!

Description 

Follow the dihedral past a couple of bulges for 70 feet using smeary stems and slopy face holds when appropriate. Make a burly move at the end of the dihedral through a small roof to gain a ledge. Rest up for the finish as you summon your TWall roof skills. Gun through the flake and stacked roofs to the finish. In the summer, the dihedral may be guarded by a squadron of large, white, paratrooping spiders. Warn your belayer of the incoming menace before you take mighty carabiner swings at the enemy while desperately clinging by a handjam and praying the disgusting little octopeds don't land directly on your face. Most exciting to do after monsoon level rain when friction is questionable.

You can set a hanging belay before mantling the final move to the top to avoid excess rope drag, or find something on top to redirect the rope. Belay from top off hemlock at cliff's edge.

Walk climber's right 50 ft to giant hemlock slung with rap ring to descend.

Note:
Originally climbed by Geoff Ris and Kevin Sigmund up to first small roof, then escaped out right to ledge. Climbed again by Geoff Ris and Ryan Haeseley under drier and less arachnophobic conditions to the top.

Location 

From What Madness, just uphill in obvious dihedral at left of main wall.
From Animal Territory, head up to main wall and to the left.

Protection 

Normal rack.
Extra 1's and 0.75's for the roofs.


Photos of Spider Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spider Rain in late March on a beautiful day.
Spider Rain in late March on a beautiful day.

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By Corona
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Excellent route on great rock. Would be a classic anywhere. Rapelled from large quite hemlock at top of cliff

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