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The Long Wall
Routes Sorted
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Chewy S 
Fifty Fifty S 
Flight Path S 
Flirting with E S 
Going Ballistic S 
Hot and Bothered S 
Maximum Overdrive S 
Menace Alert S 
Minimum Overdrive S 
No Way, Jose' S 
On the Porch S 
Ragged Reaction S 
Rocky Top Hilton S 
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 
Spice S 
Stone Cold Dixie S 
Under the Milky Way S 

Spice 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Petty, Bill Davies, 1996
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 14, 2009

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start by climbing up a flake system with excellent holds to reach the roof. Clip the bolt in the roof, grab the excellent jug at the lip and crank up finding small but positive holds to eventually reach a jug (crux). From here, diagonal up and right a bit over giant flakes and make a mantle move to reach the shuts. The beginning and end are quite easy for the grade(probably 5.9 or so). The roof is the business and coolest part of the route.

Location 

Continue past the Under the Milky Way, World at War, and Maximum Overdrive along the trail. Locate an obvious flake system below a roof in the next section of wall.

Protection 

5 bolts, shuts.


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By Matt Powers
From: Madison, VA
Sep 27, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got on it yesterday and the bolts & anchors looked a bit sketch. All are quite rusty, and the right-most anchor didn't look fully seated. Nothing seemed too loose, but I tried to avoid unnecessary loading of any of the fixed gear.

The route itself is fun, and if you like powerful moves and dislike footwork, this roof is for you.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Sep 27, 2016

How was the bolt not seated? What type of bolts were they?
By Matt Powers
From: Madison, VA
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Chris, I can't remember exactly, but I want to say it was cold shuts with non-stainless bolts, and the right-most anchor looked like it had a 1/4" gap between the gear and the rock and was a little cocked, where the left one was still flush. If you (or anyone) get a chance to look at it I would be interested to hear the verdict.