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Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger)

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Sphinx Rock 
Temple Rock 

Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger) Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 34.22706, -117.2536 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,280
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristoffer on Feb 2, 2006

81° | 57°
Memorial Day

82° | 56°

80° | 55°

73° | 52°

75° | 55°

79° | 56°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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photo by Victor Ramirez


This south-facing crag overlooks the city far below, and while it tends to be a bit windy, it's still very nice.
The granite is a bit chossy at the base of the cliff due to fire damage, but nothing too serious.

Getting There 

Drive Hwy 18 to the Cliffhanger restaurant and park several hundred feet down the road in a large pullout, and then walk along side the road until you see a faint climbers trail leading to the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Lake Arrowhead Area area.

Weather station 0.5 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger):
The Sharp-end Dagger   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Temple Rock : Royal Wall
Queen of Deception   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Temple Rock : Royal Wall
Tricky Horus of the Twin Horizons   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Temple Rock : Royal Wall
Crimp-Tick Combination   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Temple Rock : Inner Temple
She Gave Him Blue Bolts   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sphinx Rock : Blue Bolts Wall
Sunshine Flurries   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Temple Rock : Powermyd Wall
NeuroToxin   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sphinx Rock : Arrowhead Lookout Wall
Rock like an Egyptian    5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Temple Rock : Powermyd Wall
All Hood in the Good   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sphinx Rock : Arrowhead Lookout Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger)

Featured Route For Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger)
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for the Hood

All Hood in the Good 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  California : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Arrowhead Lookout Wall
Easy face climbing leads to a low deceptive crux ( mantle the slab with slightly overhanging face devoid of *obvious holds. After that, have fun trying to clip the single perma draw hanging from the roof. Pull the roof and you are home free as long as you stay on route ( don't stray to the hemotoxin trough. Although these climbs start no where near each other, they do become very squeezed in upper sections....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Too much fun at Sphinx Rock
Too much fun at Sphinx Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: A hazy view of San Bernardino from atop Sphinx Roc...
A hazy view of San Bernardino from atop Sphinx Roc...
Rock Climbing Photo: High above SB
High above SB
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the sunset from the Cliff Hanger
Enjoying the sunset from the Cliff Hanger
Rock Climbing Photo: Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger), San Bernardino...
Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger), San Bernardino...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the western face of Sphinx Rock from the...
A view of the western face of Sphinx Rock from the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking/Climbing down to the heart of Sphinx Rock
Hiking/Climbing down to the heart of Sphinx Rock

Comments on Sphinx Rock Area (aka The Cliff Hanger) Add Comment
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By Jon lindquist
Mar 3, 2014
Cliffhanger crag is going through some changes. These are my notes, please enjoy, and respect.
thank you.

coming up hywy 18 from 10/ 215/waterman rd.
pull out and park in the pull out on the right past the cliffhanger hotel, across the street from the furniture store, just before the traffic signal to lake Gregory. back up behind the guard rail, please leave room for emergency traffic and fill in the farthest edge, both sides of the road are snow chain equipping areas.
Available parking is limited, please do not over crowd.

>>Climber trail::
Do not cross the guard rail and walk to the hotel!!
the owner has requested we no longer go near the hotel after the recent renovations.
Instead walk up the road slightly and on your left you will drop into a poorly maintained single track trail, next to some large rocks.

>>Climbing list::

Starting from farthest wall closest to the cliffhanger hotel.


>>>Royals wall:

> the sharp-end dagger.
5.5, 5 bolts, 2 chains, trad optional poor placements.
Climb Left wall and sharp dihedral.
Fa Jon/Brent

> thief in the knight.
5.9, same 5 bolts, and 2 chains
Climb Slab only stay generally right of bolts, left wall, and dihedral lie back off.
FA Jon/ brent

> queen of deception.
5.7, 5 bolts, same 2 chains
Climb Center slab, using the second bolt of "THOTH" near right arête, then back to center slab, 3 bolts to top.
FA joe d ?

>king of inception.
5.8, 5 bolts, same 2 chains.
Climb Center slab, do not wander too far left or right.
FA Brent/Jon

>Tricky Horus of the twin horizons. "THOTH"
5.10-, 5 bolts, 2chains
Climb Left slab and right arête, starting on low overhanging blocks.
FA Jon /Brent

>>>powermyd wall

>Rock like an Egyptian
5.10c/d, 10 bolts, 2chains
Left arête and face, try not to round the corner and climb "THOTH"
FA Jon/Brent

>sunshine flurries
5.10 b/c finishing on "WLE"
5.11c/d straight out.
Trad optional rated R
10 bolts, 2 chains
Climb prominent center flailing crack to center face.
FA Gary/Brent

>walk like an E-kryption. "WLE"
5.11a/b, 9 bolts, 2chains
Climb Right face to right arête.
FA Jon / bolts and belay Brent

>>> inner temple wall.

> crimp-tick combination.
5.10 a/b, 9 bolts, 2chains.
Start in overhang lie back crack to left most slab and left arête.
FA Jon/Brent

> sole food
5.9+ 8 bolts, 2 chains. Trad optional rated R.
Start on block above access chains, climb center slab.
FA Jon/Brent

>"OG "cornered out.
5.7. trad, 2 chains
Climb obvious right corner crack system to two chains.
FA ???


>>> blue bolts wall ( across from inner temple wall.

> Mukat, and the fiery arrowhead in the sky.
5.8+ 8 bolts, 2chains
Climb left corner to mid block anchor.
FA Jon/Brent

>the bread loaf
5.10 a, 9 bolts, 2chains
Climb middle face to mid block anchor.
FA dave k/ bolted by Jon

>Lichen this
5.3 , 2 bolts cross two anchors.
From the mid level block traverse the obvious ledges out right to the top of sphynx rock.

> she gave me blue bolts
5.10 c 12 bolts, 2chain
Climb left arête to mid Lvl, then climb thin seam above mid Lvl anchor block to chains.
FA Jason m/ Kim

>>> early bird wall

> Elohim
5.10 d, 12 bolts, 2chains.
Left arête to steep face after mid Lvl.
Fa Brent/ Gary

5.11 b/c 12 bolts, 2 chains,
climb face just right of Elohim, climb right side arête and face to chains.
FA Brent/ Gary

>"OG" old school
5.13 b 15 bolts 2chains
Climb slab to steep overhanging finger crack.
credit to joe d for initial bolts. Brent for additional bolts at start.
FA Matt hullet

> heart breaker machine
5.12 b/c, 14 bolts, 2 chains
Climb slab to two sections of steep face.
FA Gary/Brent -second Jason /Jon

>>> arrowhead lookout wall

> room with out a roof
5.12 a/b, 11 bolts 2 chains
Climb left overhanging trough to steep face left of hemotoxin.
FA Gary/Brent

>Neuro toxin/ hemotoxin "og"
5.10 c/d // 5.12( need work)
9 bolts 2 chains
Climb right over hanging trough to steep dihedral out.
Fa joe d ?

> all hood in the good
5.11 d 8 bolts 2 chains
Climb side boulder on climbers right to first bolt, and face just right of hemotoxin, top out the steep gun safe arête on right side. the top out of hemotoxin is off.
FA Brent/Gary

>>> kosmos wall

> space ( old rated r/x A3 5.6 ground control to major mknelly) aid gear cleaned.
5.11 a/b
10 bolts 2 chains
left face just after the tunnel from arrowhead lookout wall.
FA Brent/ Gary

5.12 c/d, 10 bolts, 2chains
Climb center face, right block of time off, follow left bolts after second bolt.
FA Gary/ Brent.

5.10d 10bolts, 2chains.
Climb right face right block on. Follow right bolts after second bolt.
FA Brent/Gary.

>>> necropolis.

>Pizza lunchables 5.11 c/d 5 bolts 2chains
climb left corner of steep arête.
FA Jason m/ Brent

>winds desire
5.11a 4 bolts 2 chains
Climb right side arête next to "HC"
FA Brent/ Jason/ Kim

>Hippie chicks "HC"
5.10 c 4 bolts 2 chains
Climb left slab straight.

>ra's reach
5.11b 4 bolts, 2 chains
Climb right most bolts through undercling side pulls to 2 large reaches.
By brentjw2 Wright
May 21, 2015
What is the approach time from the parking lot to the crag?
By Mikey Wally
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 1, 2015
approach time is 1 to 2 minutes
By Norman Li
Apr 20, 2016
What is the beta/ethics for the highline pictured above? More specifically, is it ok to rig? If so, is it bolted? Want to figure out if bringing my highline gear is worth it or not for a weekend home.
By Vicken Djiguerian
Apr 26, 2016
Yeah go for it Norman. It's bolted for Highline. 3 point anchor
By Ryan U.
Apr 17, 2017
Is Tricky Horus.... a 5.10- or 5.8 as listed?
By C Miller
From: CA
Apr 22, 2017
Ryan, Tricky Horus is 5.8 not 5.10 and well worth doing.

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