Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sphinx in Big Sky this weekend or next?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 29, 2015
Looking for a partner for the Lowe or Lowe direct route. Let me know if you're interested. Chiatt
From Bozeman, Mt
Joined Oct 25, 2015
85 points
Nov 4, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin with legends. Jim bridwell
I could be down.where are you? travis mcalpine
From eagle river, ak
Joined Jul 17, 2010
205 points
Nov 7, 2015
I'm in Bozeman. The Big Sky area got a lot of snow this past week, so it's best to let it settle out. The ice is in though, so just waiting for the right window. I also hiked up into Hyalite yesterday, and some routes are coming in nicely...a few already in. There should be a few option by next week. I'm down to climb most Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Chiatt
From Bozeman, Mt
Joined Oct 25, 2015
85 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
What was in in Hyalite? And ya, the traverse to the routes on the Sphinx is on a huge windslab over a cliff. CCChanceR
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Aug 20, 2012
56 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin with legends. Jim bridwell
Know anyone heading to bozeman from Jackson. travis mcalpine
From eagle river, ak
Joined Jul 17, 2010
205 points
Nov 8, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: me
CCChanceR wrote:
And ya, the traverse to the routes on the Sphinx is on a huge windslab over a cliff.


+1. I was hiking down there yesterday and the north side looked like it was getting pretty loaded.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,498 points
Nov 8, 2015
G2, a couple mixed routes on the unnamed wall, and maybe the right falls at twin falls looked to be coming together. I didn't go into twin falls, so I'm not too sure...just looked from across the valley. The left side was running water. I don't know of anyone headed up from Jackson.

How is the approach to the Lowe direct route on the Sphinx affected by snow load? I haven't been in there to see it myself. My understanding is that you avoid the whole wind loaded area by dropping lower to the base.
Chiatt
From Bozeman, Mt
Joined Oct 25, 2015
85 points
Nov 8, 2015
You still climb thru some snow fields between pitches. And the exit after the money WI3 pitch after the pillar is a funnel loaded with snow. Just depends on what the wind, etc is doing. After the reactive wind slab we saw when we were down there plus the new snow, it is out of my comfort zone (plus the fact i have to drive that far). However, I did see on the ol' instagram someone posted some pictures from the lowe direct claiming they climbed it. kevino
Joined Sep 12, 2008
0 points
Nov 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
Ya some of my friends climbed the Lowe route a week or so ago. We got scared by the windslab and instead headed up some M4-ish chimney (FA?). It'll probably be out of comish after tuesday's storm...

Twin wasn't really in when I checked it last Thursday, probably soon though. Someone did that sketchy thin WI6 line right of Cleos already! Anyone checked out flanders or anything in east fork?
CCChanceR
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Aug 20, 2012
56 points
Nov 12, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: dirt bagging around cody
Those Instagram photos were probably mine. I attempted the direct last thursday Nov. 5th. we didn't finish because the post holing took too long on the approach, the lower pitches are sort of in but pretty scrappy we ended up having to bypass them with some crappy mixed stuff. On Sunday nov 8 we went back up to climb the upper pitches but the windslabs on the traverse scared us off so instead we went up the wind scoured ridge to the plateau on top of the sphinx. we descended into the gully which was heavily wind loaded. We belayed off of some large boulders for that part. then we rapped down on V-threads and climbed the upper pitches of the Lowe.

Probably also worth mentioning that while we were on the route a local guide was actually putting in a boot pack on the scary traverse we decided not to do. He said he thought the snow was actually pretty okay. He did not finish putting the boot pack traverse in though because of the deep snow and heinous post-holing.
Nate K
From Richmond, VT
Joined Jul 1, 2012
219 points
Nov 13, 2015
Not that I doubted my decision back a couple weeks ago, but I agree. I have two friends who have lost friends on that face...early season ice is good, but not worth that. kevino
Joined Sep 12, 2008
0 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.