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Sphinctre Boy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 917
Submitted By: clichtenberger on Oct 16, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Not very long, but a really fun finger crack. Cer...

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This is a right arching finger crack. Start in the crack climb it to its end then continue up face and slightly left to a two bolt anchor.


After arriving at the base of the large slab scramble up and right of face to base of Girlie Man. The crack is 5 feet to the right of Girlie Man.


A single set of Cams or stoppers up to 0.75" works well.

Photos of Sphinctre Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious short finger crack on the short slab p...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious short finger crack on the short slab p...

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By lost ryno
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 12, 2015

I honestly don't know why this gets the pg-13 rating. There is a bit of run out at the top but you won't deck and it's on easier ground. pro was fine, just where I wanted to stick my hands and feet is all.
By David Accomazzo
Mar 25, 2015

Super fun little finger crack.
By apoet
From: AZ
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I don't see why this is pg-13. There are gear placements every foot or two most of the way up. From bottom up here is a list of good placements: #8 DMM offset nut, #5 DMM walnut, #11 DMM offset nut, #1.5 tricam, #9 DMM offset nut, .5 BD c4, #.65 (blue) Totem cam, #1 BD c3, #.25 tricam, blue alien, green alien. There are a ton of other options but this should give you an idea of the placements (obviously only a handful of these are enough to safely protect the climb).

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