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Spelunk Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Condi T 
Dermatome T 
Gandhi T 
Grand Central Station T 
Old Dogs New Trick T 
Paper Training T 
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 
Sky Shot T 
Wrist Ranger T 
Unsorted Routes:

Spelunk Spire Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,915'
Location: 41.17639, -105.34788 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,958
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 8, 2005  with updates from Skip Harper
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Spelunk Spire from Upper Devil's Playground.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Spelunk Spire is one of the overlooked backwoods crags behind Reynolds Hill. Spelunk Spire hosts a variety of shorter pitches, from the spiral ... scramble to stiff stout cracks which barely accept digits.

Per Skip Harper: this rather extensive formation was known in the climbing community at least as far back as Jim Halfpenny's "A Climber's Guide to Southeastern Wyoming" (1975). It is actually visible from almost any high point in Vedauwoo, appearing to be a part of Reynolds Complex when viewed from Central Vedauwoo. However it's east across a valley from Reynolds. The 'spire' was first summited by negotiating the 'backside" (southern exposure) full of small caves, jumbled rocks, and declivities', and a 'register' was placed on top. The remainder of the formation extends from here as a southwesterly, declining shoulder/wall which terminates in several hundred yards at or near the well-known climb 'Old Dog's New Trick'. Some climbs were first done on aid, remnants of which can be found if you look close enough; however, none had names that were recorded or persisted. Later, several lines were freed and named along the southwest wall lower in the valley including Wrist Ranger and Paper Training. Just who coined the name of the crag has been lost in time, as have many crags and climbs of similar circumstance. It was NOT named for the climb 'Spelunk Spiral', an easy line of least resistance to the top first recorded in "Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo" (Harper and Kelman, 1994).

Getting There 

Begin your approach as for Reynold's Hill, by crossing the creek. Head right paralleling the creek, but crossing high ground above the creek, before descending near the creek bed willows. After passing distinct views of Old Devil's Playground across the creek to the right, including the arch of the distinctive Muscle and Fitness, look for a very faint path heading up and left through a small open rising field and then sparse trees. The trail quickly becomes distinct. After several hundred yards, Spelunk Spire will come into view across a meadow.

Climbing Season

For the Vedauwoo area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Spelunk Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Spelunk Spire:
Grand Central Station   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Old Dogs New Trick   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C     Trad, Boulder, 20'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Spelunk Spire

Featured Route For Spelunk Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: The artist formerly known as Fshizzle displaying t...

Old Dogs New Trick 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C  Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire
Classic sandbag. This is overhanging, has tough sizes, and there is one hand jam 3/4 the way up. For feet, rand smears in the crack are the way to go. It is totally sweet. TR it if you want, but better yet, haul out a pad and boulder it. No, your fingers will not rip off and stay in the crack if you fall. Go for it! This is one of my favorite boulder problems EVER. Really, EVER....[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Spelunk Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5-8 min approach to Spelunk Spire.
BETA PHOTO: 5-8 min approach to Spelunk Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Northwest end of Spelunk Spire.
The Northwest end of Spelunk Spire.

Comments on Spelunk Spire Add Comment
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By John L
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 8, 2017
An easier approach is to park near Upper Devil's Playground, cross the creek, and go around end of the road rock. See the photo.

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